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General Info About Hinges

Mon, 01 Apr 2024 16:15:00 -0700

Hinges come in a nearly endless variety, but keeping in mind some key facts can help eliminate some of the confusion.

What is a Pair of Hinges?

It is a myth that hinges are always sold by the pair. We sell hinges in two ways; by the each or by the pair, depending usually on how they are packaged by the manufacturer. To determine how a hinge on our website is sold, look for the selling unit. You will find it right next to the price of the item.

Each (often notated as EA) means one hinge. A pair (often notated as PR) means two hinges. Normally you would order at least one pair or 2 each hinges per door. When placing an order, please pay special attention to the unit so that you get the correct number of hinges that you want.

Mounting Hardware

It is important to note that hinges do not always include mounting hardware. The product page will always specify whether mounting hardware is included or not, so make sure to check this before ordering. If included, the mounting hardware is usually for a typical installation. We try to list the type of fastener needed and/or included whenever possible. If you are unable to find this information on the product page, feel free to contact us and we would be happy to help you further. If you have a special situation that calls for different screws, please make sure to order these separately.

What About Handing?

Handing describes which side of the door is hinged and which way the door swings. Most hinges are not handed and can be used on both left and right hand doors. However, some hinges and hardware are handed and you will need to choose either right or left handed hinges. For these hinges, take extra care when ordering to ensure you get the correct hinges. Handing information will be on the product pages – it can differ from product to product.

Base Materials

Hinges and hardware can be found in a wide variety of base materials. Different materials tend to be desired or even required for different situations. Base material also tends to be the driving factor when it comes to price. If you are ever wondering why a certain hinge seems so expensive (or inexpensive), checking the base material will typically give you the answer. It is also important to know that the base material often varies from the finish. It is easy to be misled by companies which only list the finish of a product. For example, a hinge listed with a brass finish may be made of a zinc base material. The material used will be listed on our product pages whenever possible. If you see a product that does not have a base material listed, it is typically because the manufacturer has not provided this information. If you are interested in an item that does not have this information provided, please feel free to contact us and we would be happy to look further into it for you.

When reading through this list, it is important to keep in mind that the characteristics being described are generally true within the metal, but an extremely large amount of variation does exist within each metal. This is because all metals, especially alloys (substances consisting of two or more metals), can vary quite a bit depending on factors such as the exact metals being used and the process being employed to create the metal. A good way to think about this is that the general term (steel, brass, bronze, etc.) is like a family name, where there exists many smaller variations within that family. A quick example can be found when looking at a metal as unsuspecting as steel. Steel is a material consisting of mostly iron with small amounts of carbon. The variation in carbon used (generally 0.15 – 2%) can make very big differences in the characteristics of the metal, however.

One last thing to note when considering specific materials are environmental variances. Exposure to sun, salt, humidity, rain, etc. make very big differences on whether a material will work for you or not. A material such as stainless steel may hold up very well for 10 years in a dry exterior environment, but that same material might see rust forming on the surface after just a few years when exposed to the harsh salt air in a coastal environment.

Aluminum

At A Glance: Not as strong as other metals but much lighter, can corrode but does not rust, environmentally friendly

Aluminum naturally generates a protective oxide coating and is corrosion resistant. Different types of surface treatment such as anodizing, painting, or lacquering can further improve this property. It is particularly useful for applications where protection and conservation are required. Aluminum is 100 percent recyclable with no downgrading of its qualities. The re-melting of aluminum requires little energy: only about 5 percent of the energy required to produce the primary metal initially is needed in the recycling process.

Brass

At A Glance: Strong, doesn’t rust but can corrode in salt environments, moderately expensive

Brass is a metal alloy made of mostly copper and zinc. Brass is a great material for many applications because it does not rust. It is important to note that the zinc within brass can corrode however, but this typically only happens over very long periods of time or when exposed to harsh elements- for example being submerged in salt water. Also note that brass is a material which can and will patina over time, depending on how it is finished. The metal itself tends to be a yellow/gold tone but is commonly plated and lacquered to change the appearance yet keep the desirable base metal qualities. While brass tends to be softer than other metals, it is still plenty strong for most hardware applications.

Bronze

At A Glance: Very strong, doesn’t rust, offers the best corrosion resistance of any metal used in our hardware, expensive

Bronze is a metal alloy consisting of mostly copper and tin, but often includes other metals. Bronze is a nearly perfect mix of strength, rust resistance, and corrosion resistance. While the surface will change and oxidize over a long period of time, that change is typically only superficial. Once oxidation covers an entire piece of bronze, it then acts as a barrier protecting the internal metal. Bronze itself, is a brown/red tone, but further tonal variations do exist depending on the exact metals used. While bronze can also be plated and lacquered, it is most commonly changed by adding a patina and then sealing it with a wax or polish coating. This is because bronze has arguably one of the most beautiful natural patinas, so most manufacturers tend to embrace this and finish the hardware in a way that allow the pieces to take on their own unique character over time. If an unchanging finish is desired, bronze is typically not the best way to go. Otherwise, bronze’s characteristics make it one of the most ideal materials to use for hardware.

Steel

At A Glance: the strongest of any metal used in our hardware, offers no rust or corrosion resistance, inexpensive, very common

Steel is an alloy made up of mostly iron with trace amounts of carbon. It is one of the most commonly used metals around the world due to its high strength, low cost, and ability to be used for virtually any application, big or small. It is important to keep in mind that “steel” itself is a very general term, as there are many variations of this alloy in existence depending on the amount of carbon present. Most products that are simply considered “steel” are more specifically a mild steel, which contains about 0.15% carbon. Another common variation is called carbon steel, which is made up of up to 2% carbon. The appearance of raw steel is a dark grey/silver tone and commonly features plated and lacquered finishes.

Stainless Steel

At A Glance: An even stronger variation of steel, offers high resistance to rust and corrosion, more expensive than steel but tends to be less expensive than brass and bronze.

Stainless steel is one of the most common variations of the alloy steel. It is made up of steel and a minimum of 10.5% chromium, along with many other elements. Chromium is the main element present that makes this variation of steel resistant to rust and corrosion. Keep in mind that stainless steel, like any metal product, is not 100% resistant to rust, corrosion, or other damage. It is a common misconception that stainless steel never rusts. An easy way to remember this fact is in the name itself. It is a metal that simply “stains less” than a normal steel would. That being said, even if stainless steel does end up rusting, one of the main benefits of the material is that it can typically be easily restored. As long as the product is a solid stainless steel base material with a natural brushed or polished finish, the right tools and/or solvents can fix this (brush wheel, polishing wheel, stainless cleaner, steel wool, etc).

Note that in general, the higher the chromium content, the more rust and corrosion resistant a stainless steel will be. Grades of stainless steel exist to help determine varying chromium content (among other elements). A 304 grade stainless steel is the most commonly used type, which has 18% chromium and 8% nickel. A majority of hardware will be made with 304 grade stainless. The next most common grade is 316, aka marine grade, which is typically 16% chromium, 10% nickel, and 2% molybdenum. Molybdenum is a new element introduced that makes 316 grade stainless even more resistant to rust and corrosion.

Wrought Iron

At A Glance: Most “wrought iron” is now made of mild steel to replicate wrought iron, in the current day the most desirable attribute is its aesthetics, actual wrought iron is strong, can be corrosion resistant, and is easily welded

Wrought iron is an alloy consisting of just iron metal and less than 0.08% carbon. It is actually an alloy that that was once very prevalent, but has been essentially replaced by mild steel, which is much less costly and still very strong. There are currently no large scale wrought iron producers, so most products that are in fact wrought iron are typically repurposed from old wrought iron products. Otherwise, most products created now are typically made of mild steel but given a look which resembles wrought iron, which is typically the main reason one would want this semi-extinct material.

Zinc

At A Glance: Not as strong as other metals, inexpensive, light, very common

Zinc itself is an element that is commonly found as a component in other metal alloys, such as brass and bronze. It is also very commonly used to add a galvanized finish over steel. This is done to improve the rust and corrosion resistance of other metals. Beyond this, zinc alloy die-cast is also used to make many hardware products. Zinc die-cast is very common due to being inexpensive, easily available, and easy to plate with a variety of different finishes. While zinc die-cast products are much less strong than a brass, bronze, or steel product, they are significantly less expensive. If looking for a budget product, zinc is definitely the route to take.

Finishes

When it comes to finishes, there exists a large amount of variation. Though names have been mostly standardized throughout the industry, there are still many factors that can make the same finish look different from product to product. Many finishes are coated with a lacquered paint. There is no standardization to what tone is used, resulting in variations in color across different manufacturers. Another factor that can change the appearance of a finish is the product’s base material. Oftentimes finishes plated over higher-quality materials have richer tones. Because of this, it is very important to carefully review and consider any possible finish variations when mixing different metals and/or manufacturers.

Some finishes are simply alterations of the material themselves. As an example, raw stainless steel is naturally a dull grey in tone, however an attractive satin stainless steel can be achieved by using a fine grit belt which polishes the material, giving it uniform brush strokes across the surface. A polished (also known as mirrored) finish is achieved in a similar fashion, but instead uses a buffing tool which polishes the material so finely that the surface becomes reflective in nature.

HardwareSource FAQ

Mon, 01 Apr 2024 16:15:00 -0700

Below you will find frequently asked questions about our company, services, and products. If you have a question that you do not see answered on this page, please email us at info@hardwaresource.com.

How long does it take to get my hardware once they have been ordered?

The shipping time depends on how far you live from our San Diego warehouse. Generally, your order will reach you in 1 to 5 business days. Shipments do not move on weekends and holidays.

How soon do you ship my hardware after the order has been placed?

We are usually able to ship orders out by the next business day after you order. If you order on Friday, Saturday, or Sunday, we consider the next business day to be Monday. If you need your hinges quicker, give us a call and ask about our rush shipping options. We can usually get these express orders out the same day.

What is your return policy?

You can find our complete return policy here.

Do you ship merchandise outside the United States?

At this time, we only ship to addresses in the continental United States, Alaska, and Hawaii. For APO/FPO/DPO and Canadian orders, please email info@hardwaresource.com with a list of the SKU numbers and quantities you would like to purchase, along with your complete ship to address. Once we receive this information we will email you a shipping quote. Please note: Canadian shipments have a $50.00 minimum order.

I have a hinge that I am trying to replace but I need help identifying it. Can you help?

Yes! Please click here to visit our Hinge Finder page.

Some of your hinges are sold by the each and some sell by the pair. What is the difference?

When the unit of measure says “pair” that means two hinges. Usually you need one pair of hinges per door. When the unit of measure says “each” that means one hinge. You would usually order 2 “each” hinges per door.

How do you measure your hinges?

We measure our hinges in the open position, as if they were laying open, flat on a table. Height is the first dimension and width is the second dimension. The height direction is usually the same direction as the hinge pin. The width direction is usually the direction that is perpendicular to the hinge pin. “Joint length” is the measurement from tip to tip of the hinge pin.

I want to replace my hinges. How do I make sure the screw holes on the new hinge match the screw holes on the old hinge so I do not have to redrill the holes?

Unfortunately, hinge manufacturers have never standardized the location of their screw hole patterns. Every manufacturer puts their screw holes in a slightly different place. This means that when you replace hinges you will almost certainly have to do some filling and redrilling. The exception to this is Architectural door hinges which are built to a standardized template for each size hinge.

What is the difference between Architectural hinges and Residential hinges?

Residential Grade hinges are lightweight hinges normally used on tract type homes. Architectural Grade hinges are much higher in quality than residential hinges and they are about 50% thicker. They are generally used in custom homes and by homeowners who want to upgrade the hardware in their homes during a remodel. They are made of a thicker base material and are available in a wider selection of sizes and finishes. Architectural Grade hinges are available with ball-bearings to increase the life of the hinge (yes, hinges do wear out). Ball bearings make a heavy door easier to open.

Do you carry any hardware made in the USA?

Yes! We are proud to carry many manufacturers that make their products in the USA. All of our American-made hardware will have a “Made in USA” flag on the product image.

How do I get a catalog of your hinges?

We no longer publish a catalog. Because we add new hinges almost every week, we have found that we cannot keep a catalog up-to-date. We hope you can make use of our website. If you are unable to find what you’re looking for please give us a call. We may be able to special order you what you need.

Where can I find more decorative hardware?

Please visit our sister site, SanDiegoHardware.com.

How to Identify the Right Replacement Hinge for Old Cabinets

Mon, 24 Feb 2025 16:51:00 -0800

Built-in cabinets in older homes often need to have the hinges replaced. Hinges may be missing or broken, causing doors to close incorrectly, or previous replacements were incorrect. Identifying the type of hinge you have is the first step to finding a correct replacement.

At the turn of the 20th century, family homes did not have built-in cabinetry. Kitchens had open shelving and freestanding cabinets for storage. By the 1920s, homes were being built with built-in cabinets. Most cabinetry featured inset or partial inset doors. Surface mounted hinges were common and often decorative, though butt hinges and half surface hinges were also used.

How much of the hinge you see when the door is closed is a good way to narrow down the type of hinge you have:

Butt Hinge: When the door is closed, only the barrel or knuckles are visible.

Full Surface Hinge: Entire hinge is visible on the frame and door face.

Half Surface Hinge: One half of the hinge is on the door face, the other is on the frame's inside edge.

If your hinges are missing, check for old screw holes and how the door fits in the frame to determine mounting style.

By the mid-century era, cabinets often had partial inset or full overlay doors. The most common hinge was the semi-concealed hinge, visible only on the face of the cabinet when closed.

Semi-Concealed Hinges: When the door is closed, half the hinge is visible on the cabinet face.

Pivot hinges were also common, either mounted above/below or into the edge of the door. Steel cabinets from the 1950s often used manufacturer-specific pivot hinges.

European hinges have become the standard over the past 40 years. These are fully concealed when the door is closed.

To review: Do you see all, part, or none of the hinge? When closed, does the door recess fully, partially, or sit on the outside of the frame?

Finding the Right Hinge

Once you identify your hinge type, you'll need to find the correct size or style. Modern hinges differ from vintage ones, so expect to re-drill screw holes or modify the cabinet. Always replace all hinges on a door to avoid misalignment.

Butt Hinges

Measure when laid open like a book. Height is measured along the barrel, width is the full open span. Watch for mortise depth and hinge thickness.

Full Surface Hinges

Check whether your application is flush or offset. Flush = door is recessed. Offset = door sits proud of the frame. Offset is typically 3/8".

Half Surface Hinges

Half mounts inside the frame, half on the door face. Ensure enough space and good wood for screw placement.

Semi-Concealed Hinges

Check if they screw into wood or use a cutout — the latter are called Demountable Hinges. Reverse bevel doors need Reverse Bevel Hinges. Doors with a stepped edge need Partial Inset Hinges. Flat back doors use Overlay Hinges.

Demountable Hinges: Mount into a cut-out in the door or frame.

Reverse Bevel Hinges: For doors with a beveled back edge.

Partial Inset Hinges: For doors with a stepped edge that recess into the frame.

Overlay Hinges: For doors that overlap the cabinet opening.

Some semi-concealed hinges wrap around the frame edge. For those, you'll need the overlay measurement — how much the door overlaps the cabinet face.

Partial Inset Hinges

Measure both the lip (how much overlaps the frame) and the inset (how much recesses into the frame).

Pivot Hinges

Note mounting style (above/below or side-mounted). Check for brand stamps. Minimal hardware is visible when closed.

Pivot Hinges: Often mostly concealed when the door is closed.

European Hinges

Available for nearly all applications. For a full guide, click HERE.

Note: There are few industry-wide standards for cabinet hinges. Expect variation in screw placement, size, and finish. But with some adjustments, you can usually find a functional fit.

Resources

Hinge Glossary

Mon, 01 Apr 2024 16:15:00 -0700

Alloy – A substance consisting of two or more metals.

Architectural Finish Hardware – Functional hardware with a finished appearance. A part of the decorative treatment of the building and its rooms.

Articulated Doors – Usually refers to doors used on entertainment centers where the door needs to open wide enough to allow the television screen to be viewed from all angles. An articulated door is a door hinged in two places. The first joint is where the door attaches to the cabinet. The second joint is placed so the door can swing 90 degrees back around the edge of the cabinet. Double wrap hinges work well on articulated doors.

Ball Tip – A decorative exposed tip of a hinge pin that is shaped like a ball.

Ball-Bearing hinge – A hinge equipped with ball bearings between the hinge knuckles to reduce friction.

Barrel – A portion of a hinge that is enlarged to receive the pin and act as the pivot point. It includes one or more knuckles from each individual leaf.

Base Material – The type of metal underneath the plating or finish of a piece of hardware. Examples: steel, brass, bronze, stainless steel.

Bevel of Door – The angle of the edge of the door in relation to the inside and outside surfaces of the stile. Thin doors are not usually beveled. The commonly used bevel for heavier doors is 1/8″ in 2″. A beveled edge on a thick door is necessary to achieve as small of a clearance as possible between the door edge and door frame. Without the beveled edge, the door would bind on the frame, in turn not allowing the door to open fully.

Butt Hinge (or Butt) – A hinge mortised into both the door and frame. A butt hinge abuts the surfaces of a door and door frame.

Casement or Casement Window – A window in which the frame is built in such a way that the sash can open out like a door when installed in a window unit.

Casing – The framing around a door or window.

Center Hung Pivot – A Center Hung Pivot is a special type of hanging device for heavy-duty doors that usually swing both ways (double acting). This type of hinge mounts above and below the door.

Center-to-Center – Measurement from the center of one member to the center of another.

Clearance – A space intentionally provided between building parts, either to facilitate operation or installation, to ensure proper separation, to accommodate dimensional variations, or for other reasons.

Clip On Hinge A concealed hinge that allows the two parts of the hinge to be attached by snapping them together. A feature of many European hinges.

Concealed Hinge – A concealed hinge is a hinge constructed so that no parts are exposed when the door is closed.

Continuous Hinge – A hinge designed to extend for the length of the moving part to which it is applied. Also called “piano hinge.”

Cup – The door portion of a concealed European hinge (such as our Blum hinges) that requires a hole to be drilled in the back of the door. The cup portion of the hinge is inserted into this hole.

Degree Of Opening – The angle a door will open. Some hinges will allow the doors to open further, allowing for better access to the contents of the cabinet.

270-Degree Hinge – A hinge that allows the door a full movement of 270 degrees. It allows the door to open all the way to the outside side of the cabinet wall. This can only be achieved on a frameless full overlay cabinet design.

Double-Acting Spring Hinge – A device for hanging a door, permitting the door to swing in either direction and return to a central, closed position.

Double-Acting Door – A door equipped with hardware that permits it to swing to either side of the plane of its frame.

European Style Cabinets – Frameless cabinets that use a concealed hinge.

European Hinges – A concealed hinge which mounts to the door in a bored hole and to the cabinet with a mounting plate. Brand names like Blum, Grass, Hettich, Salice, etc.

Exposed Hinges – Hinges that show on the outside of the cabinet. Hinges that are not concealed or hidden.

Fast Pin Butt (Hinge) – A hinge in which the pin is fastened permanently in place, preventing separation of the two leaves.

Face Frame – a narrow piece of wood (usually about 2” wide) which is attached to the front of a cabinet. This wood frames the cabinet opening where the doors go.

Finial Tipped – An exposed tip of the pin of a butt hinge that has a fancy turned shape

Finish Hardware – See Architectural Finish Hardware.

Floor Closer (also known as a Spring Pivot) – A door closing device that is installed in a recess in the floor below the door in order to regulate and control the opening and closing of the door.

Frameless Cabinet – A cabinet with no face frame. Basically a 4 sided box with one of the sides acting as the cabinet door. Sometimes called a European style cabinet.

Free Swinging Hinge – A hinge that moves freely from open to close. There is no spring or closing action to the hinge.

Friction Hinge – A hinge designed to swing a door and hold it at any desired position by means of friction control incorporated in the knuckles of the hinge.

Full Inset – Usually applies to cabinet doors. A full inset door is one which is located within the cabinet opening and the front face of the door is flush with the front of the cabinet or cabinet face frame.

Full Overlay – Usually applies to cabinet doors. A full overlay door will completely (or almost completely) cover the front edge of the cabinet. For kitchen cabinets, full overlay doors are typically used at both ends of a run of cabinets. Half overlay doors are used for cabinets in the middle of a run where the doors share a common partition wall.

Fully Concealed Hinge – A hinge that does not show at all from the outside of the cabinet.

Half Overlay – For frameless cabinets which share a common single partition wall (for example in the middle of a run of cabinets where the doors share a common single partition wall) the hinge allows the door to cover up half of the partition wall. Not to be confused with 1/2-inch overlay which allows a door to cover up the cabinet or face frame by 1/2 inch.

Hand – The term used to indicate the direction a door swings.

Handed Hardware – Locks, closers, some hinges and other hardware, limited to use with doors that swing in a given direction.

Hinge – Two jointed plates hinged together and attached to a door and its frame. Serves to support or “hang” the door and allows the door to swing or move.

Hinge Backset – Distance from the back-end of the hinge to the edge of the inside door surface.

Hinge Jamb – a Vertical member of the door frame to which the hinges are applied.

Hinge Stile (of a door) – The door stile to which the hinges are applied.

Hinge Types – Classified according to installation method:

Half-Mortise – Hinge with one leaf mortised in the edge of the door and the other leaf secured to the surface of the door jamb.

Full Mortise – Hinge with one leaf mortised in the edge of the door and the other leaf mortised in the doorjamb.

Half-Surface – Hinge with one leaf mortised in the doorjamb and the other leaf secured to the surface of the door.

Full Surface – Hinge with one leaf secured to the surface of the door, the other leaf secured to the surface of the door jamb.

Inset Hinge – An inset hinge allows a door to sit flush within the cabinet opening. The front face of the door is flush with the front of the cabinet or face frame. Also see Full Inset and ⅜” Inset.

3/8 inch Inset Hinge – A hinge used on a door that has a 3/8″ x 3/8″ rabbet cut all the way around the door on the back edge. This cut allows half the thickness of the door to go back into the cabinet and leaves the front half of the door overlaying the cabinet or face frame. It is also sometimes called a lipped door.

Jamb – The vertical member forming the side of a door, window or wall opening frame. The hinge jamb is the jamb at which the hinges or pivots are installed. The strike jamb is the jamb in which a strike may be installed and away from which the door or window swings. A blank jamb is one that has not been prepared to receive hardware.

Jamb Depth – The width of a jamb, measured perpendicular to the door or wall face at the edge of the opening.

Joint Length – The measurement along the hinge pin, measured from tip to tip.

Knife Hinge – A type of pivot hinge that resembles two blades of a knife. Two hinges (one on the top edge and one on the bottom edge) are used per door.

Knuckle – The enlarged part of a hinge into which the pin is inserted.

Leaf (of a hinge or butt) – One of the two movable plates which, when fastened together by the hinge pin, form a complete hinge.

Lipped Door – This is a door that has a rabbet cut all the way around the door on the back edge. This cut allows part of the door to go back into the cabinet and leaves the remaining part overlaying the cabinet or face frame.

Loose Joint Hinge – A hinge that has only two knuckles, where one knuckle has the pin fastened permanently and the other contains the pinhole. This allows the two parts of the hinge to be easily separated. These hinges are handed.

Loose Pin Hinge – A hinge having a removable pin to permit the two leaves of the hinge to be separated.

Mortise – An opening recess or cutout made to receive a lock or other hardware. Also the act of making such an opening.

No-Mortise Hinge – A type of hinge that is only one leaf thick. It allows a narrow gap between the door and cabinet without mortising.

Non-Removable Pins (NRP) – Enhanced security for door hinges. A setscrew is threaded into the barrel of the hinge and intercepts a groove in the hinge pin. Doors that open out should have non-removable pins to help keep intruders from removing the pins and then the doors.

Offset Pivot – A special hanging device for heavy-duty doors, used on doors swinging one way only.

Olive Knuckle Hinge – A hinge with an oval or olive-shaped single knuckle.

On Center – Measurement from the center of one member to the center of another. For example, measurements taken between screw holes are taken “on center” or “center to center”.

Overlay Hinge – An overlay hinge is used on cabinets where the door is larger than the opening.

Patina – A green or brown film on the surface of bronze or similar metals, produced by oxidation over a long period.

Paumelle Hinge – A style of hinge using a single, pivot-type knuckle. Generally modern, or streamlined design.

Pin Hinge – A hinge that pivots on a single point. Offers a very low profile, as only the pivoting knuckle is visible from the outside of the cabinet.

Pivot Hinge – A hinge that pivots at a single point. Also, a concealed hinge for inset doors that uses a bushing placed into the horizontal cabinet members above and below the door, with a pin coming down from the hinge into the bushing.

Pivot-Reinforced Hinge – Butt hinge combined and interlocked with a pivot to increase shock load resistance.

Plain-Bearing – A standard hinge without oil-impregnated or anti-friction ball bearings.

Rabbet – A term used to define that portion of a door frame into which the door fits. Also, a term used to describe the abutting edges of a pair of doors or windows so shaped as to provide a tight fit. One half of the edge projects beyond the other half, usually 1/2″.

Residential Hinge – A hinge that is typically used in tract home construction for lightweight doors. Residential hinges are made of thinner material than Architectural hinges. They also do not come in the variety of types, sizes, and finishes that Architectural hinges are available in.

Return – A molding turned back to the wall on which it is located.

Reveal (of a door frame) – That part of a back bend that projects out from the finished wall. Also, the dimension from the inside face of the door to the face of the frame at the side opposite from the direction of the door swing.

Reveal (of a cabinet door when using European style hinges) – The reveal is the gap distance between the edge of the cabinet door and the edge of another door in the case of back-to-back doors. It can also be the gap distance between the edge of the door and the face frame in the case of inset doors.

Reverse Swing – A term used to designate the hand of a door when the door swings to the outside/key swing.

Reverse Bevel Hinge – A hinge used on a cabinet door where the edge of the door is angled back toward the opening of the cabinet. This type of door usually does not use cabinet knobs as the reverse bevel acts as a finger grip when opening the doors. Self-Closing Hinge – A type of hinge used on cabinets which closes the cabinet door the last couple of inches. This acts to keep the door closed.

Semi-Concealed Hinge – A type of cabinet hinge where part of the hinge is fastened to the face frame and part of it is hidden behind the door.

Shutter Hinge – A hinge designed to swing shutters.

Sill – The stone or wood member across the bottom of a door or window opening. Also the bottom member on which a building frame rests (sill plate).

Single-Rabbet Frame – A door frame having only one rabbet.

Single-Acting Door – A door mounted to swing to only one side of the plane of its frame.

Slip On Hinge – A concealed type hinge where the two parts of the hinge are fastened together by slipping one half on the other and then tightening a screw.

Snap Closing Hinge – This type of hinge will have a design feature to help pull the door in and keep it shut when the door is brought within a few inches of being closed. Also known as self-closing.

Spring Pivot – A door closing device that is installed in a recess in the floor below the door in order to regulate and control the opening and closing of the door.

Soffit – The under surface of the stop at the frame head. That portion of a doorframe between the rabbets on a double-rabbeted frame or between the rabbet and the outer edge of the frame on the stop side of a single-rabbeted frame. Sometimes referred to as the “stop width.”

Soss Hinge – A type of concealed hinge that is used on full inset doors. The Soss hinge must be mortised into the door and the cabinet.

Specifications – A written document that accompanies the working drawings, which sets forth standards for, the materials used in the construction of buildings. It also covers all conditions relating to that construction; labor, bidding, purchasing, payment, etc.

Spring Hinge – A hinge containing one or more springs to move the door into a closed position. It may be either single or double acting.

Stile – The vertical members of a door, window or screen. On a door, the stile is where the lock and hinges are applied.

Strap Hinge – A surface mounted hinge of which one or both leaves are of considerable length.

Surface Mounted Hinge –a hinge with both leaves secured to the surface of the door and frame. A surface mounted hinge can be either exposed or concealed.

Swaging – A slight offset of the hinge leaves at the barrel, which permits the leaves to come closer together.

Swing – The direction of opening of a swinging door Synonymous with the “hand of a door.”

Swing Clear Hinge – An interior door hinge that allows the door to open completely clear of the door opening so that large equipment may pass through the opening of the door. A swing clear hinge is typically used for wheelchair access.

T-Hinge – A surface hinge with the short member attached to the jamb and the long member attached to the door.

Template Hardware – Any item of hardware that is made to template, i.e., exactly matching the master template drawing as to spacing of all holes and dimensions.

Three-Eighths (⅜”) Inset – A cabinet door which is partially inset in the opening and partially overlays the opening (the overlay is also called the lip). The inset dimension is ⅜”. Other inset dimensions that are still in existence but not used in new construction are ½”, ⅝” and ¾”. The lip dimension is almost always ⅜”

Transom or Transom Window – A small window over a door.

(270) Two Hundred Seventy Degree Hinge – A cabinet hinge that allows the door to open 270 degrees (the door folds back against the cabinet wall). This will only work for an overlay door where the cabinet door is a full overlay door.

Wrap Around Hinge – A type of cabinet hinge which offers extra attachment strength by wrapping around and attaching to the back edge of the door and/or the face frame. Depending on how many bends the hinge makes determines whether it is a full wrap or a partial wrap around hinge.

Yoke – A clamp or similar piece that embraces two parts to hold or unite them in position. Many of our heavy duty weld-on hinges have a yoke, which is the large “C” shaped component.

Zero Clearance Hinge – A hinge that allows unobstructed access for pullout shelves or drawer when a door is open to 90 degrees or more. This means that the door will not protrude into the area of the cabinet opening when open. This is only possible in a full overlay door layout.

Types of Cabinet Hinges: A Complete Guide

Mon, 01 Apr 2024 16:13:00 -0700

There are numerous cabinet hinge types, and choosing the right one can seem challenging. How do you know which hinge will best suit your project? How do the various cabinet hinge styles look and work? We know you want to find your perfect hinge, and you may not have the time to dig into the nitty-gritty details of all the cabinet door hinge types.

We compiled a comprehensive list of common cabinet hinge styles to save you time. We summarized vital information about each — from how they work and their features to typical use cases and pictures for reference. Whether you plan to use these cabinet door hinge styles for your kitchen, bathroom, or bedroom, you’ve come to the right place.

1. European and Concealed Hinges

European and concealed hinges, often called cup hinges, are designed to remain hidden from view when you close the cabinet door. Unlike traditional hinges, concealed hinges mount on the interior side of the cabinet door for a seamless, minimalistic look when closed.

How They Work

Concealed hinges operate using a simple and elegant mechanism. A cup-shaped component is mortised into the door, with another attached to the cabinet’s interior. When you close the door, the hinge parts fit perfectly within each other, ensuring a flush and concealed appearance. The hinge’s design allows for precise door alignment and consistent spacing adjustments.

Features

Here are a few common features to consider when choosing concealed hinges:

Adjustability: One of the standout features of concealed hinges is their adjustability. Users can fine-tune the position of the door in various directions, ensuring a perfect fit and alignment.
Soft-close mechanism: Many concealed hinges have a soft-close feature, gently closing the door without slamming. This feature adds convenience and helps prolong the life of your cabinet doors.
Sleek aesthetic: European hinges are modern, clean, and discreet. They complement contemporary cabinet designs beautifully.
Variety of applications: Concealed hinges work with all cabinet door applications.

Best For

European or concealed hinges are best used for modern and contemporary cabinets with a sleek, clean look. They are one of the most suitable bathroom cabinet hinge types. Also ideal for frameless kitchen cabinets and furniture, these hinges stay concealed when doors are closed. These hinges are popular in homes with a modern aesthetic, offering a seamless, uncluttered look for cabinet doors.

2. Semi-Concealed Hinges

Semi-concealed hinges are among the most versatile hinge designs for cabinet doors. They strike a balance between surface mount and fully concealed options. When closed, these hinges allow a portion of the hinge mechanism to be visible while concealing the remaining part.

How They Work

Semi-concealed hinges consist of two parts — one plate attached to the door’s back and the other to the cabinet’s frame. The hinge’s pivot point, or the hinge pin, enables the door to open and close smoothly. While the frame wing is visible on the cabinet’s interior, the door wing remains hidden when you shut the door. This design conceals the hinge’s primary function, providing a sleek look and maintaining sturdy cabinet door operation.

Features

Consider the following key features of semi-concealed hinges:

Durable construction: These hinges are durably constructed from materials like steel or brass, ensuring longevity and reliability.
Ornamental elements: Some designs incorporate ornamental features, adding an elegant touch to the cabinet’s appearance.
Variable opening angles: These options offer various opening angles, providing door movement and functionality flexibility.

Best For

Semi-concealed hinges are best used for cabinet doors where a partial hinge appearance is acceptable. Ideal for kitchens, bathrooms, and bedroom closets, these hinges provide a neat appearance while ensuring easy access to items inside the cabinets.

3. Surface Mounted Hinges

Surface mount hinges, as the name suggests, sit on the surface of the cabinet door and frame without needing to drill recesses or mortises. Also called surface mounted, surface mount hinges display the entire hinge on the outside of the cabinet, enhancing its aesthetic appeal with an attractive color or design.

How They Work

Surface mount hinges attach directly to the exterior surface of the cabinet door and frame. These hinges have plates or wings you can screw onto the cabinet door and frame. The hinge pin, which holds the plates together, allows the door to pivot open and close.

Features

Surface mount hinges often have the following features:

Ease of installation: These hinges are relatively simple to install since they don’t require complex recesses or mortises.
Visible design: Surface mounting makes them visible, which is ideal for showcasing the hinge as part of your cabinet’s aesthetic.
Variety of styles: They come in various styles, finishes, and materials. This feature allows you to select the one that best complements your cabinet’s design.

Best For

Surface mount hinges are best used for cabinets where the design calls for the hinge to be visible on the cabinet’s exterior. They are a popular choice among kitchen cabinet hinge types, combining functionality with an attractive design. These hinges enhance the aesthetics of the cabinet by showcasing their color and design on the outside.

4. Wrap Hinges

Wrap or wrap-around hinges allow cabinet doors to wrap around the frame when closed. This design completely conceals the hinge when you shut the cabinet door, offering a clean, unobtrusive look.

How They Work

Wrap hinges consist of two plates — one attached to the cabinet frame and the other to the cabinet door. When you close the door, these plates wrap around each other, allowing the door to sit flush with the cabinet frame.

Full-wrap hinges wrap entirely around three sides of the face frame, while partial-wrap hinges feature a long leaf that wraps around the side panel’s face frame.

Wrap hinges include various options for frameless cabinets with overlay doors that sit on top of the cabinet’s openings. Hinges with partial insets work well for cabinet doors with an overlaying lip and insets that partially fit in the opening. In addition, 270-degree wrap hinges are ideal for entertainment centers and similar applications.

Features

Consider the following specific features of wrap hinges:

Concealment: Wrap hinges primarily hide the hinge mechanism with a closed cabinet door.
Sleek aesthetics: These options provide a seamless cabinet surface for a modern look.
Various finishes: Wrap hinges are available in numerous finishes, making it easy to match them to your cabinet style.

Best For

Wrap hinges are best used for overlay doors and inset doors. Ideal for achieving a sleek cabinet design, wrap hinges allow the door to sit flush with or completely cover the frame for a seamless appearance. Wrap hinges are perfect in contemporary kitchen and bathroom cabinets and furniture where aesthetics is a priority.

5. Butt Hinges

Butt cabinet hinges are often called “traditional” hinges, characterized by two plates joined by a central barrel. The butt hinge attaches to the inner edge of the door, and when shut, only the knuckle section of the hinge is exposed. To prevent gaps, you can install butt hinges directly onto the doors and cabinets or mortise them, depending on the application.

How They Work

Butt hinges work on a basic yet effective principle. The two hinge plates — one mounted to the door’s edge and the other to the cabinet frame — align to ensure the door opens and closes smoothly. When you close the door, the plates meet securely, and the central pin or knuckle serves as a pivot point. This design allows for a simple and functional hinge mechanism.

Features

Consider the following key features of butt hinges:

Sturdiness: Butt hinges are durable and reliable. They are capable of withstanding frequent use and heavy doors.
Simplicity: These hinges are straightforward in design and operation, making them popular for various applications.
Variety: Butt hinges come in various sizes and materials, including stainless steel, brass, and other finishes, allowing you to select the option that best suits your needs.

Best For

Butt hinges are best suited for a variety of applications, such as interior doors, cabinets, cupboards, and wooden boxes. They provide a classic look while ensuring durability and reliable performance.

6. Youngdale Hinges

Youngdale has been among the most trusted and reliable hinge brands for decades. Youngdale cabinet hinges provide smooth and durable operation while keeping the hardware fully concealed from the frontal view when closed. The designs are known across the industry for superior quality, making them ideal for many furniture and kitchen cabinetry projects.

How They Work

Youngdale hinges come in various designs suited for a range of door thicknesses. Many designs are self-closing, consisting of a body attached to the cabinet frame and a leaf attached to the door. They are compatible with both frameless and face frame cabinets. Excluding the #65 design, Youngdale hinges are not handed, meaning the same hinge will work on either a right- or left-hand door.

Features

Several primary features of Youngdale hinges include:

Simple installation: Compared to European designs, Youngdale hinges are much easier to install.
Multiple finishes: Finishes are available in various options, including brass, nickel, stainless steel, bronze, and white tones.
Superior quality: Youngdale has been one of the industry’s most trusted hinge brands since 1963.
Easy identification: Each hinge includes an identification number for quick replacement selection.

Best For

Youngdale hinges are highly popular in kitchen cabinetry applications, because most of the hardware is concealed from view. They are ideal for 3/8-inch partial inset doors or overlay doors. These hinges offer a high-quality alternative to European-style hinges.

7. Pivot or Knife Hinges

Pivot or knife hinges are a unique type of hinge known for a minimalistic and stylish design. Knife hinges, named for their resemblance to a knife blade, consist of two interlocking metal plates that pivot around a central point. One plate is attached to the cabinet frame, while the other is on the door. This design allows the door to swing open and close smoothly.

How They Work

Knife hinges work by creating a pivot point between two plates, allowing them to rotate in sync. One plate is typically mortised or recessed into the cabinet door’s edge. The other is mounted within the cabinet frame. These plates pivot around the hinge point with an open or closed door, ensuring smooth door movement.

Features

Here are a few common features to consider when choosing pivot hinges:

Sleek design: Pivot hinges are known for their stylish and minimalistic appearance.
Semi-concealed view: The only visible component of the hardware is the pin or the axis point where the hinge rotates.
Versatile installation: You can use them with full overlay, partial overlay, or inset cabinet doors, making them adaptable to different cabinet styles.

Best For

Knife hinges are ideal for projects desiring a sleek, minimalist appearance. They provide a discreet and concealed hinge design, ideal for applications where you want hinges hidden from the outside. These options are used in high-end furniture and cabinets for a clean and elegant look. Pivot hinges also work well with doors that must swing open smoothly and precisely.

They are an excellent option for projects where aesthetics and functionality go hand in hand.

8. Entertainment Center Hinges

Entertainment center hinges are specialized hinge designs used in media consoles, television stands, and similar types of cabinetry. Also known as 270-degree hinges, these designs enable the door to open wide enough to offer a clear view of your television screen.

How They Work

Entertainment center hinges connect the door panel to the frame, facilitating smooth opening and closing movement. Since this option operates differently than a standard hinge, a wider-angle opening is achieved. These hinges come in various designs based on your requirements, including pivot hinges, double-wrap hinges, and full overlay hinges.

Features

Features of entertainment center hinges include:

Variety: These hinges come in various finishes, from bronze and brass to pewter and black.
Wide opening angle: The 270-degree angle ensures your television isn’t obstructed from view. Wider-angle openings also allow for easier placement and removal of the items inside the cabinet.
Size options: These hinges come in various overlay dimensions to meet your needs.

Best For

Entertainment center hinges are best suited for media consoles and other cabinetry projects requiring 270-degree openings.

9. Glass Door Hinges

Unlike traditional hinges for wooden doors, glass door hinges are specifically designed to hold the door securely while providing smooth movement. Depending on the application, many glass door hinges typically have a frameless design that helps minimize the visibility of the hinge hardware.

How They Work

Glass door hinges function by securely keeping the glass panel in place and allowing it to swing open and close seamlessly. These doors often have specialized features like frameless designs, self-closing mechanisms, and unique opening angles to provide stability and convenience, specifically for glass doors.

Features

Enjoy these features when installing glass door hinges:

Reliability: Choose from some of the industry’s most reliable brands, such as Sugatsune and BLUM.
Versatility: These hinges come in many designs to accommodate a range of door thicknesses.
Variety: Glass door hinges are available in various finishes to complement your existing cabinetry, from stainless steel and polished nickel to brass and bronze.

Best For

There are many options for glass door hinges — including bore and non-bore types — to meet the requirements of the glass panel and the structure. Examples include cabinets, display cases, showers, and more.

10. Demountable Hinges

Demountable hinges allow for easy removal or disassembly of cabinet doors without unscrewing or repositioning the hinge hardware. The primary benefit of these hinges is simplifying cabinet assembly, installation, and maintenance.

How They Work

A demountable hinge attaches with an insert that fits into a slot in the door or cabinet. After the hinge is placed in the slot, it can be tightened to secure the door. If the door requires removal for maintenance, cleaning, or another reason, you only need to loosen the hinge.

Features

Standard features of these hinges include:

Easy installation: Demountable hinges are much easier and quicker to install than many other hinge types.
Convenience: The intuitive hinge designs make door removal easy and convenient.
Variety: Demountable hinges come in single- or double-demountable designs with many different finishes, including bronze, nickel, brass, and more.

Best For

Demountable hinges are best used for various cabinetry applications where high accessibility, ease of removal, and fast reinstallation of doors are desired. They are commonly found in kitchen cabinets, bathroom vanities, office furniture, and similar applications.

Choosing a Cabinet Hinge

Selecting the right cabinet hinge is crucial for the functionality and aesthetics of your cabinets. Whether you’re working on a kitchen, bathroom, or other cabinet project, choosing the right hinge is the key to long-lasting, reliable, and visually appealing results. Here are some key steps to help you choose the perfect cabinet hinge:

Understand Your Cabinet Type

First, identify whether you have framed or frameless cabinets. Knowing your cabinet type will narrow down your hinge options.

Face frame cabinets: These designs have a frame on the unit’s front, providing the cabinet box with increased strength and added dimension. Face frame cabinets are among the most popular designs of American manufacturers.
Frameless cabinets: Frameless cabinets rely on thicker side panels for strength instead of a face frame. While these designs are highly prevalent in Europe, they have steadily emerged in America among those who prefer modern and contemporary aesthetics.

Consider the Door Overlay

Next, determine the overlay of your cabinet doors. The overlay refers to how much the door covers the cabinet opening. Common overlay styles include full overlay, half overlay, and inset. Each of these may require a different type of hinge. Your choice should align with your cabinet design and personal preference.

Determine the Functionality

Consider the desired functionality for your cabinet doors. Do you prefer soft-close hinges that prevent doors from slamming? Are you looking for self-closing hinges for convenience? Your specific needs will help narrow down your choices.

Select the Hinge Style

Traditional, concealed, or decorative hinges can affect the overall look of your cabinets. Choosing a style that complements your cabinet design and fits your requirements is essential.

Choose the Installation Method

Determine whether you prefer surface mount or mortise hinges. Some hinges may require more complex installation, while others are more straightforward.

Find the Hinge You Need at HardwareSource

You’ve explored common cabinet hinge styles, from classic butt hinges to sophisticated pivot hinges. But the key to making your cabinet project shine is finding the perfect hinge for your unique needs. That’s where HardwareSource, the specialty hinge division of San Diego Hardware, comes in.

With a legacy dating back to 1892, HardwareSource is your trusted source for all things hinges. We take pride in our vast array of hinge styles and finishes, featuring renowned manufacturers such as Baldwin, Hager, SOSS and Stanley. No matter the hinge you need, you’ll find it here.

Ready to take the next step? Browse our extensive selection of cabinet hinges and hardware, and take advantage of our Hinge Finder for quick and precise searches.

Can’t find what you need? Contact our knowledgeable customer service team, and we’ll guide you to the perfect solution.

All About Soss Invisible Hinges

Mon, 01 Apr 2024 16:13:00 -0700

The Soss Invisible Hinge is a very unique piece of hardware. It is a hinge that is completely invisible or concealed from both the outside and the inside of the door when the door is in the closed position. At HardwareSource.com, we carry 11 sizes of Soss Hinges in 5 different finishes (Satin Brass, Satin Chrome, Black Epoxy and Satin and Polished Stainless Steel). Click here to go right to our selection of Soss Invisible Hinges.

The smallest Soss hinge is made for a door or lid that is at least 1/2″ in thickness and the largest Soss hinge is made for a 2″ or thicker door.

Soss hinges are strong, safe and secure. When the door is closed the Soss Hinge cannot be seen or tampered with. When opened the Soss hinge pin is not removable. The moving pivot point remains inside the hinge during travel until the door is fully opened. This eliminates a potential pinch point on the back side of the door. When the Soss Invisible hinge is installed, it is firmly anchored in a deep, full mortise which assists the screws in supporting the door, assuring a stronger, more rigid installation. Soss Invisible hinges are designed to give dependable operation for years. Soss Hinges are made of high strength plated steel and heavy duty zinc alloy castings.

Soss Hinges are easy to install. They can be installed with a power drill and drill bit or with a router. Detailed instructions and a paper template are included with the purchase of all Soss Hinges. For the professional installer or the frequent Soss hinge user, router guides and templates are available. HardwareSource.com stocks Soss router guides and templates for all of the Soss hinge models. Click here, for more information on Soss Hinge installation.

How to Measure Your Overlay

Mon, 01 Apr 2024 16:15:00 -0700

A face-frame cabinet is a cabinet which has a front panel into which an opening has been cut. An overlay door is a door which, when closed, lays “on top” of the cabinet opening (no part of the door goes into the opening since the door is larger than the opening). The overlay dimension is simply how much bigger the door is than the opening of the cabinet (as measured on the hinged side of the door).

Here is how to measure your door overlay on a face frame cabinet, (the measuring process is basically the same for a frameless cabinet):

Overlay Door – note the door sits in front of face frame and is larger than cabinet opening.

Line up the edge of your door with the edge of a piece of tape and apply the tape to the face frame of the cabinet (must be on the hinged side of the door).

Now, open the cabinet door and measure from the edge of the tape (inside edge) to the edge of the opening of the cabinet. In this case the overlay is 1-1/4″. The example shown above is of a European hinge but the process is the same for any kind of overlay hinge.

Another way to look at door overlay: If your door is 30″ wide and the opening is 28″ wide then then you could calculate your overlay as 30 minus 28 divided by 2 equals 1″. Divided by two because the overlay is measured on one edge, the hinged edge of the door. This method is not recommended as a way to measure your overlay because it is not as accurate as the tape method.

Measuring Your Overlay on a Notched Frame Cabinet

How To Measure The Inset On A Partial Inset Door

Mon, 01 Apr 2024 16:14:00 -0700

A partial inset door is generally found on a cabinet which has a face frame. When the door is closed part of the thickness of the door fits inside the opening of the cabinet (this is the “inset”) and part of the door “overlays” the cabinet opening (this is the “lip”). In order to choose the proper hinge for this type of door you must know both the inset dimension and the lip dimension.

The above photo shows a Semi-Concealed Partial Inset Hinge as it is installed in a cabinet door and face frame.

The above photo shows a “cut away” view of the cabinet face frame and door (looking down from above) of a “Partial Inset” door.

The above photo shows a close up view of the cutout on the edge of your door. You will be measuring the “lip” dimension and the “inset” dimension.

The standard lip dimension is 3/8″. Occasionally we hear of a customer who has a lip dimension of 1/2″ but we do not believe there are hinges still being manufactured for this lip dimension. Some customers have told us that they were able to use a hinge made for a 3/8″ lip by shaving off 1/8″ of the 1/2″ lip on their door to give them a 3/8″ lip.

Possible inset dimensions are 3/8″, 1/2″, 5/8″ and 3/4″. The 3/8″ inset has been in wide use for the last 30 or so years. Before that 1/2″, 5/8″ and 3/4″ were used.

Measuring Space For Precise Hinge Size

Fri, 12 Sep 2025 13:34:51 -0700

Are you installing a new door, but not entirely sure which size of hinge is needed? They’re crucial to a functioning door, keeping it supported in the door jamb and fluid when opening and closing. With so many different sizes of hinges, it might be tough to figure out the precise measurement you need for your specific door. There are several factors that play a part in determining which size is correct: the height, weight, width, and thickness of the door. While every situation is unique, here is how to measure for the right hinge size for your door.

Know Your Way Around A Hinge: Hinges are measured from top to bottom and side to side. This bit is pretty straightforward. You’ll then need to be able to discern radius corners from square corners. A square corner has that sharp angle like a square. For radius corners, they’re more curved. Use a dime and nickel to gauge the size of your radius corner. A dime matches the ¼” radius and a nickel the 5/8”. Learning this will allow you to more easily navigate hinges.
Measuring Your Door: How you measure your door will vary on its type. How exterior, interior, and screen doors are measured varies in the slightest. For a standard door, you’ll take the width by using a tape measure and measure at the center. For the height, hook the tape measure to the top of the door and stretch it to the very bottom. A standard hinged door measures 30 inches wide by 80 inches tall. To get the thickness, simply open the door and measure the inner edge where the lock is.
If you need to measure the rough opening—meaning the wall around the door isn’t fully finished—you’ll take the width by measuring from the 2×4 on the left to the one on the right. For the door height, you’ll measure from the top 2×4 to the underside of the door. You may also want to take the measurements of the door jamb, too.
Choosing the Right Hinge Size: This is where your door measurements come in. While every door is different, this is a general baseline you can follow. For doors 1 3/8” thick and 32” in width, the hinge height should be 3 ½”. If it’s a little wider than this, up to 36”, then bump that hinge height up to 4”. For thicker doors around 1 ¾” and 36” wide, the hinge will need to be 4 ½”. If wider, up to 48”, then scale up to a hinge height of 5”. This incremental increase continues as the door’s measurements are thicker and wider. This is because the hinges need to be large enough to stabilize the size of the door.
Where to Install Hinges: Generally, the bottom hinge will be 10 inches from the bottom edge of the door to the floor. The top hinge should be five inches from the jamb to the upper edge of the door. If your door requires a third hinge—these are primarily used in public facilities, offices, and other spaces that require heavy doors—it needs to be perfectly centered between the top and bottom hinges.

At Hardware Source, we offer hundreds of high-quality door hinges that will look great with your interior or exterior door. The most common type of hinge used in homes is called a butt hinge, of which we carry a wide-ranging selection of metal types and finishes to best suit your needs. Alongside these, we carry hinges for specialty doors, screen doors, and so much more. We also stock spring hinges which are designed to self-close your door. For your shed or garage, strap hinges are used, as they have leaf plates that are fully exposed when the door is closed. Pivot hinges are made for specially designed or heavy doors.

Feel like you could use a hand? Send us a message with your door height, weight, width, thickness, and trim details and we’ll be able to point you in the right direction.

Guide to Selecting European Hinges

Mon, 01 Apr 2024 16:15:00 -0700

If your next project needs European hinges, you'll find that you have plenty of options. To narrow your choices effectively, you need to know how these hinges work, be sure of how to install them, and decide on the perfect balance between aesthetics and functionality.

Every project has a starting point, whether you're an avid DIYer or a contractor working with a new client. This handy European hinges guide will take you through some basics to choose the right hinge for each job.

What Are European Hinges?

European hinges, also known as concealed or cup hinges, boast a design that allows them to remain hidden from view when you close your cabinet door. The result is a seamless look and clean lines, without the bulk of external hinges.

These hinges rely on an ingenious internal mechanism. A cup-shaped component is mortised to the cabinet door, while the mating piece is attached to the cabinet's interior. The components swing together when you close the door, creating a flush, minimalistic aesthetic. These hinges also allow for precise door alignment and consistent spacing adjustments, as well as the addition of soft-close mechanisms.

Their slick, clean appearance makes European hinges ideal for modern and contemporary cabinets. However, the design works well for many different applications, including frameless kitchen cabinets and furniture.

Types of European Hinges

You have various options to consider when selecting the right components for your project, including the type of European hinge you would like to use. The following are categorized according to how the door overhangs the cabinet and represent the three most common types:

Full overlay hinges: A full overlay design aligns your cabinet door edge with the edge of the cabinet, meaning it covers the cabinet box stile or face frame stile entirely when you close the door. They are ideal for frameless and face frame cabinets and a popular choice for modern cabinetry because they provide a smooth finish. Full overlay hinges come in soft-close and self-close options.
Partial overlay hinges: The central elements in these hinges are slightly curved. They are similar to full overlay hinges, but the design allows the cabinet door to partially overlay a frameless box or face frame stile. They typically allow a gap between doors to prevent double or back-to-back doors from binding when opening. They can be used with face frame or frameless cabinets.
Inset hinges: Inset hinges, also called full-cranked hinges, are designed for installing cabinet doors flush with a face frame or frameless cabinet.

You can also get a wide range of specialty European hinges for unique applications like bifold doors and glass doors with narrow frames.

What Makes European Hinges Different From Other Hinge Types?

Your choice of hinges depends on your aesthetic and functionality goals. Comparing European hinges to other hinge types can help you make the best choice for your project. Some other common cabinet hinges include:

Semi-concealed hinges: These hinges boast a versatile, two-part design that falls halfway between surface mount and European hinge options by leaving a portion of the hinge mechanism visible when the cabinet doors are closed. Some semi-concealed hinges take advantage of this visibility by including ornamental features.
Butt hinges: A central barrel joins two plates to create a butt hinge, which attaches to the edge of the cabinet door. When the doors are closed, you can only see the knuckle section of the hinge. These hinges are durable and versatile, so they work well for various applications.
Pivot hinges: Pivot or knife hinges offer another minimalistic and streamlined alternative. However, they have a visible hinge pin, which could affect the overall aesthetic. They provide smooth and precise door movements, making them an excellent functional option for furniture and cabinets.
Surface mount hinges: These hinges sit on the surface of the cabinet door and frame, removing the need to drill mortises or recesses. They display the entire hinge on the cabinet's outside for a distinct aesthetic. These hinges are easy to install and come in various styles and finishes to complement the cabinet design.
Wrap hinges: These hinges allow cabinet doors to wrap around the frame and door, making for easy positioning of the hinge on both. They are ideal for overlay and inset doors, allowing them to sit nearly flush with or completely cover the cabinet frame.
Youngdale hinges: A Youngdale cabinet hinge keeps the hardware concealed from the font when the cabinets are closed. Many Youngdale designs are self-closing, making them popular for kitchen cabinetry. They also come in multiple finishes and have an aesthetic similar to European hinges.
Entertainment center hinges: These hinges are purpose-built for media consoles and other types of entertainment cabinetry. Their design enables cabinet doors to open wide, giving you an unobscured view of your TV. They come in various designs and finishes and allow for an opening of up to 270 degrees.

Selecting the Right European Hinges

With the different varieties of European hinges available, you will need to consider a few factors to ensure you select the right ones for your project:

Cabinet construction: The first step is to ascertain whether you have a face frame or a faceless cabinet. A face frame cabinet has a solid wood frame at the front, almost like a window frame. If the side panel of the cabinet extends to the front in a single plane, you have a frameless cabinet. You can use European hinges on either cabinet, but each has its own installation kit and requirements.
Door type: The type of door you have determines which mounting plate and hinge to use. Full inset doors lie flush with the cabinet opening. In contrast, overlay doors extend past the cabinet opening, and no part of the door sits inside the cabinet. A partial inset door has a rabbet around the edge, so they sit halfway inside the cabinet.
Door size: Installing too many hinges wastes time and money, but you need enough to ensure the door is supported and safe. Standard-size cabinet doors often have two hinges, but you may need more to support larger doors.
Door opening angle: In many cases, you want as much access as possible to the contents of your cabinet. However, suppose the cabinet is against a wall, or it houses large items close to the entire width of the cabinet. In that case, you may need specific European hinges to accommodate those needs.
Hinge closing options: Consider how you would like your cabinet doors to operate. A soft-close hinge lets the door close silently and smoothly, even if someone shuts it with force. A self-closing hinge often has a spring or similar design feature that pulls the door in and keeps it closed — once the user pushes it to within a few inches, the self-closing hinge takes over and finishes the job. A free-swing hinge allows the door to move freely.

Replacing a European Hinge

Most European hinges are installed at the factory level using specialized equipment. When it comes time to replace your hinges further down the road, the holes are already in the right place. All you need to do is figure out which hinge to buy.

When selecting a replacement hinge, balancing functionality and aesthetics is essential. The following guidelines can help you choose the ideal hinge replacement:

Check your existing hinges: The first step in replacing European hinges is to evaluate the existing hinges in the cabinet. Take note of their dimensions, key elements, and condition. Bear in mind that when one hinge is damaged, the best practice is to replace all the hinges on that door to ensure they all wear evenly, which will minimize the chance of future alignment issues.
Evaluate the cup style: Cup style and bore distance are pivotal in installing functional replacement hinges. A hinge's cup style refers to how the hinge attaches to the door and comes in two variations — cup only and cup and dowel. The former is commonly paired with "screw-on" style hinges, while the latter provides greater ease of installation.
Confirm the bore distance: Bore distance is the distance from the edge of the door to the edge of the hinge hole. Accurate bore distances are essential to aligning your hinges, so measure carefully to determine what you have. The most common distances are 3 millimeters and 5 millimeters.
Consider maintenance and durability: When replacing hinges on your cabinet door, durability and maintenance are principal considerations. Opting for high-quality hinges minimizes maintenance requirements and reduces the need for repairs and replacements. Hinges constructed from robust materials such as stainless steel or zinc alloy are better suited to frequent use. They can also withstand various environmental factors, saving you time and money on replacements in the long term.

Advantages of European Hinges

European hinges have several advantages, including:

Adjustability after installation: You can adjust most European hinges in three directions after you install them — vertical, horizontal, and in-and-out. This capability allows you to achieve a consistent reveal on all edges and easily open and close your cabinet doors without binding.
Easy door removal: European hinges attach to the inside of the cabinet door and snap into the mounting plate on the cabinet interior. Most European hinges have two parts — the hinge and the mounting plate. You can often remove the door hinge from the mounting plate without using tools.
Complete concealment: As European hinges are completely concealed, they provide a modern, clean aesthetic suitable for many commercial and residential applications. They also eliminate the hassle of matching the hinges to the knob and pulls.
Reduced noise: Many European hinges come with self-closing and soft-closing capabilities, meaning there's minimal noise when you close the cabinet doors.
Longevity potential: Along with its noise reduction benefit, the soft-close feature prolongs the life of your cabinet doors by eliminating the possibility of slamming.
Flexibility and adaptability: European hinges are suited to various applications and cabinet door types. They work with inset, full overlay, and partial overlay applications. If you add special mounting and cover plates, you can even use them on customized door materials like glass or metal.
Affordability: Due to their modular design, European hinges are easy to adjust and replace without the help of a professional installer, making them a more cost-effective choice over the life of your cabinet.
Simple cleaning and maintenance: As European hinges are concealed when the cabinet doors are closed, they see less exposure to dirt, moisture, or debris, making them a low-maintenance, easy-to-keep-clean option.

Care and Maintenance Tips for European Hinges

Maintaining your cabinet hinges is important for preserving their functionality and aesthetics. The following steps can help you stay on top of your hinge maintenance needs:

Clean and dust your hinges regularly: Over time, dust and grime build up in your hinges, affecting their performance and longevity. A soft cloth with some gentle cleaning solution is sufficient to address this issue. Wipe down your hinges, mainly where dirt and grime might build up. You can also use a toothbrush to remove buildup from hard-to-reach areas. Avoid acidic or alkaline detergents, as these chemicals can damage the varnished finish on the cabinet.
Lubricate the hinges: Your hinge mechanism works every time you open and close the cabinet doors, which creates friction. Keep your hinges operating smoothly by treating them with a suitable dry lubricant.
Check the screws: Loose hinge screws can cause door misalignment, and may even lead to the door detaching from the cabinet altogether. Check your hinges periodically and tighten any loose screws.
Replace damaged hinges: Even high-quality hinges experience normal wear and tear over time. If one hinge becomes loose or damaged, it puts extra pressure on those that remain. A loose hinge can often be fixed by tightening the screws, but if it's damaged beyond repair, ensure you replace it as soon as possible. We suggest replacing both hinges on a cabinet door if one has failed.

Installation of European Hinges

Before you can attempt installation of European style hinges, you need to understand the following terms regarding your cabinets and the European style hinges.

Is your cabinet construction type face frame or frameless? The mounting plate for frameless type cabinets mount on the inside wall (side panel) of the cabinet. The mounting plate for face frame type cabinets mount on the edge of the face frame itself.

Are the doors overlay, inset, or back-to-back (also known as twin doors)? The type of door you have determines which mounting plate and what type of hinge you will use.

Door Types for Frameless Cabinets

Door Types for Face Frame Cabinets

How far do you want the doors to open (opening angle)? Blum hinges and European hinges come in different opening angle degrees. Some examples of opening angles are 110 degrees, 120 degrees and 170 degrees.

If the door is an “overlay door” what overlay dimension do you want? The overlay dimension is the distance that the door lays over the cabinet opening. It is measured on an existing cabinet by taking the distance from the edge of the opening to the edge of the door when the door is in the closed position. Once you know what overlay dimension you are going to use you would consult an “overlay table” to pick your mounting plate and your bore distance. The bore distance is the distance from the edge of the cabinet door to the edge of the 35mm hole that is drilled for the hinge. Each hinge will have an “overlay table” that will help you determine which mounting plate and what bore distance to use to give you the overlay that you want.

If the door is an “inset door” or “back-to-back” door, what reveal dimension do you need to use? The reveal (reveal is the gap between the twin doors or the gap between the door and the face frame in the case of an inset door) is important because you need enough reveal to keep the door from binding when it is opened. The thicker the door the more reveal is needed. The reveal dimension is determined by the bore distance. Each hinge will have a “reveal table” which will show the mounting plate height, the bore distance and the resulting reveal dimension.

Each of the Blum European hinges that is on the HardwareSource website has installation information such as overlay tables, reveal tables and mounting plate choices to help you with your purchase.

How Many Hinges to Use on Your Door

Why Trust HardwareSource?

HardwareSource has been the country's most reliable and experienced hinge and hardware supplier since 1892. Generation after generation has learned they can depend on our service, products, and expertise. As the specialized hinge division of San Diego Hardware, our knowledgeable customer service team can help you choose the best products for your unique applications. You can rely on the HardwareSource team for expert help, whatever your needs.

Selecting Cabinet Hinges

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When choosing cabinet hinges, there are two main things to consider: the cabinet construction type and the cabinet door type. These characteristics are independent of one another, so determining each separately is recommended to help simplify the identification process. Once you have identified both of these characteristics, choosing the proper hinge becomes much easier. Additionally, if you have a photo of your door and its hinge, you can use our hinger finder to easily identify which hinge is needed for replacement.

Cabinet Construction Type – Face Frame or Frameless?

The cabinet construction type refers to just the cabinet box, not the cabinet doors. There are two types of cabinet construction:

Face-Frame Cabinets: Face-frame cabinets have a “frame” that attaches to the front of the cabinet. The face-frame gives the cabinet box extra strength while adding dimension to the door fronts. Face-frame cabinets are commonly made by American cabinet manufactures.

Frameless Cabinets: Frameless cabinets do not have a face-frame, and instead rely on thicker side panels for strength. Frameless cabinets are very common in Europe, but have steadily been making their way into America, as they lend themselves well to contemporary and modern designs.

Cabinet Door Types

There are four basic cabinet door types:

Overlay Doors: The door is larger than the opening and sits entirely on top of it – no part of the door sits within the opening.

Full Inset Doors: The door sits completely in the opening and is flush with the surface of the cabinet.

Partial Inset Doors: Part of the door is inset into the opening and part of the door overlays the opening.

Offset Doors: Nearly identical to partial inset doors, however the hinge is surface mounted and all of it is visible.

For each of the cabinet doors types listed above there are many different cabinet hinge types that can be used. We have listed many of them below.

Overlay Cabinet Doors

The 1/4″, 3/8″ and 1/2″ overlay hinges shown below are set overlays. The overlay dimension is measured from the edge of the cabinet opening to edge of the cabinet door as it lays in the closed position on the cabinet. The variable overlay hinge accommodates any overlay dimension because it attaches to the surface of the cabinet and not to the edge of the cabinet opening.

Full Inset Cabinet Doors

Full inset cabinet doors are used on cabinets where the door butts up against the edge of the cabinet opening. The door lays flush with the surface of the cabinet face. Full inset doors can use either butt hinges or surface mounted cabinet hinges.

Partial Inset Cabinet Doors

The most commonly used partial inset cabinet doors dimension today is the 3/8″ inset. The 1/2″ inset, 5/8″ inset and 3/4″ inset hinges were used in the 1950′s and 1960′s and are no longer used in new construction. We still have stock in these older inset cabinet hinges but the finish selection is limited.

Offset Cabinet Doors

One more type of inset door is shown below. This type of cabinet is essentially exactly the same as a partial inset door, with the main difference being the hinge is mounted on the exterior side of the door, and is fully visible. There could be an infinite number of offset dimensions, however the most common offset is 3/8″. For 3/8″ offset cabinet doors, a 3/8″ offset hinge should be used.

Selecting Full Sized Door Hinges

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Butt Hinges

The following information applies to hinges for residential homes, not commercial applications.

Residential Door Hinges

Residential hinges are the door hinges that are used in most tract type housing today. They are lighter in weight and are only available in a limited number of sizes and finishes. They are generally only available in 3 sizes (3″ x 3″, 3-1/2″ x 3-1/2″, and 4″ x 4″). They are best used on lightweight doors.

Architectural Door Hinges

The hinges on our website called “Architectural Hinges” are the hinges most people want to use when upgrading the hardware in their home or when installing new custom doors. Architectural hinges are higher quality and made of thicker material than Residential hinges. They are available in all hinge sizes from 3″ x 3″ up to 6″ x 6″ and larger. Architectural hinges are available in a wider choice of finishes than are Residential hinges. They are also available with an NRP feature (NRP stands for non-removable pin). An Architectural hinge with NRP has a set screw in the barrel that is only accessible when the door is swung open. This security feature deters someone from removing the hinge pin and door on an outward swinging door. When you upgrade existing hinges from Residential grade to Architectural grade keep in mind that you must increase the mortise depth on the door and jamb because Architectural hinges are thicker.

Architectural Ball Bearing Door Hinges

An upgrade to the plain bearing Architectural Hinge is the ball bearing Architectural Hinge.Hinges do wear out over time. Heavier and/or wider doors put more stress on the hinges and tend to wear on the hinges’ knuckles. The ball bearings are placed between the knuckles to reduce friction. Ball bearing hinges increase the life of the hinge, tend not to make a creaking sound, make the door easier to open and are a good choice anytime a door closer is used.

How to Determine the Correct Number of Hinges per Door

How to Determine the Correct Size of Door Hinge to Use

Comparison of Architectural Door Hinges and Residential Door Hinges

The above comparison between Architectural and Residential hinges is a general guideline. Some hinge manufacturers may use slightly different thicknesses, screw hole patterns, etc.

Location of Butt Hinges on the Door

The top hinge should be located 5″ from the rabbet in the door frame (measure to the top of the hinge barrel). The bottom hinge should be located 10″ from the finished floor (measure to the bottom of the hinge barrel). This is the U.S. Standards procedure. Certain Western states use as a standard 7″ from the top and 11″ from the bottom. The third hinge should be centered between the top and the bottom hinges.

Specialty Hinges

Swing Clear Hinges are used whenever a door is required to swing completely clear of the openings so that wide equipment (for example wheelchairs) can pass through.

Wide Throw Hinges position the door out further when it is open than conventional hinges. They are used when a door is set back in a reveal (or where a door has a wide door jamb) and is required to open 180 degrees.

How to Estimate Door Weights

Note: this figure represents average pounds per square foot.

To calculate your door weight multiply the size of your door (in square feet) times the number in the chart above (pounds per square feet). The result is your door weight in pounds.

For example if you have a 1-3/4″ thick door that is 8’0″ by 3’2″ and made out of oak, you would calculate the square inches of the door (96 x 38 = 3648) and divide by 144 to get the square footage (3648/144 = 25.33). To calculate the door weight multiply the square footage times the pounds per square foot for oak (25.33 x 7 = 177.31 lbs). Keep in mind that this is an estimate and does not include any hardware that you are going to have on the door.

Door Handing

Which Hinge Handing to Use?

For left hand doors, use left hand hinges.

For right hand doors, use right hand hinges.

For right hand reverse doors, use left hand hinges.

For left hand reverse doors, use right hand hinges.

Other Considerations

The hand of a door is determined from the outside of the door.

The outside of a room door is the hall side.

The outside of a closet door is the room or hall side.

The outside of a single communicating door is the side from which the hinges are not visible.

IMPORTANT! PLEASE NOTE: If you were sent to this page by a link on the HardwareSource.com website then this handing information applies to the product on the page that sent you here. If you arrived on this page from another website or from a search engine then this handing information may not apply to your hinge or product. Some manufacturers and some industries use different handing rules.

A Guide to Selecting Gate Hinges

Mon, 01 Apr 2024 16:14:00 -0700

Hinges are relatively small components, but they play a pivotal role in the experience you have with your gates. By installing the right hinges, you can easily open and close your gate for years. The hinges will also require minimal maintenance thanks to a durable base material that resists breaking and rusting. But how do you find the right one?

The two main considerations for choosing a gate hinge are the gate's weight and width. However, you can consider other factors to narrow your choices and find the optimal hinge. This gate hinge guide covers all the different types and explains how to choose the best one for your gate.

Types of Gate Hinges

Gate hinges come in many variations, each with its own ideal use case and benefits. Whether you're a homeowner, business owner, or contractor, understanding each type will help you choose the right one for your gate and requirements.

1. Strap Hinges

Strap hinges are a type of surface-mounted hinge. This means they sit on the face of the gate without needing a mortise — a cutout in the frame for the hinge. You can easily install them with screws or bolts, which is why they're a popular option for gates. Strap hinges have two triangular leaves — the flat parts of the hinge that attach to the post or gate — that connect to a rotating axis in the middle.

You'll also find strap hinges that look like the letter “T,” which is why they're sometimes called “tee hinges” or “T-hinges.” Tee hinges have a small, rectangular leaf that sits vertically on the gate's frame or post. The other leaf is longer and attaches horizontally to the gate door.

Strap hinges and tee hinges are suitable for light to medium-weight gates. However, most people choose these hinges for their decorative appeal. Because the leaves sit prominently on the front of the gate, they often have unique designs. You can find contemporary strap hinges with geometrical patterns or antique-style ones with ornate swirls.

There are also sleek, heavy-duty variations if you value functionality over form. Most strap hinges also feature a non-handed design, so you can mount them on both sides of a gate.

2. Barrel Hinges

A barrel hinge is a common type of gate hinge. It has a cylindrical barrel that acts as the gate's pivot point. The gate's weight distributes evenly along the full length of the hinge, which helps control the gate's movement.

Gates with barrel hinges open and shut smoothly thanks to a greased ball bearing inside. While the bearing contributes to the smooth operation most people love these hinges for, it needs regular greasing to maintain optimal functionality. Regular maintenance will also reduce wear on the internal components, which means you'll have to replace them less often.

Barrel hinges are typically small with a low profile, so you might choose one for your gate if you want a more concealed hinge. The smaller, traditional barrel hinges are best for light gates, but you can also buy weld-on or spring barrel hinges to suit your requirements.

3. Self-Closing Hinges

Self-closing hinges contain a spring or hydraulic mechanism that allows them to close on their own. When you open a gate with a self-closing spring hinge, the tension in the spring causes the gate to return to its original position.

You can usually adjust the spring's tension to change its closing speed. The gate should close slowly enough to avoid hitting you on the way out. Hydraulic hinges work similarly. However, they regulate closing and latching speed, preventing slamming. In contrast, non-hydraulic spring hinges have a linear closing speed, which can lead to slamming.

These hinges are necessary for gates that must stay closed, like at a child care facility or swimming pool. They're also useful for security gates and pet fences. If you have a door that opens in one direction, you'll need a single-acting spring or hydraulic hinge. For gates that open in both directions, a double-acting, self-closing hinge is necessary so the door closes both ways automatically.

4. Heavy-Duty Hinges

Most types of hinges have a heavy-duty version made to withstand heavier loads and high levels of use. These hinges usually contain stronger materials like steel or iron. They also have robust bearings, bushings, and plates for extra durability and strength. You often need to weld or bolt them on so they can handle the swinging force from a heavy gate.

Heavy-duty hinges are usually the best option if you have a wide or heavy gate. These hinges can have weight ratings of 2,000 pounds or higher. You might also consider heavy-duty hinges if your gate experiences extreme climates or high traffic. Their robust design helps them resist wear and sagging, so they often last longer than standard hinges.

5. Weld-On Hinges

As the name suggests, weld-on hinges are a type of permanent hinge that you weld to a metal gate and gate post. You'll need to install them with a welding machine by heating the surface of the hinge and gate to fuse them. This process creates a more secure and long-lasting connection compared to other hinges.

Due to their high load capacity, weld-on hinges are ideal for heavy metal gates. The welded connection ensures the gate doesn't sag or loosen over time. They're also durable and can withstand harsh weather conditions. You'll need to replace them less frequently than other types of hinges, but installation often requires a professional.

6. Butt Hinges

Butt hinges are the typical hinge most people use for interior doors, but they also work for lightweight gates. These hinges have two symmetrical, rectangular plates that connect to a cylindrical barrel. To install them, you must first create a mortise — a shallow cut that emulates the hinge's size and thickness — in the gate and frame.

The mortise allows the hinge to sit flush with the surface so the gate can easily open and close. You may not need to mortise the hinges if there is a wide gap between the frame and gate door.

7. Pintle Hinges

Pintle hinges consist of two parts — a pin, called a pintle, and a strap. The pintle is a cylindrical metal piece that sits vertically. It attaches to the gate post and acts as the pivot for the gate hinge. The strap attaches to the gate itself and has a hole or eye that slots over the pintle. This design allows gates with pintle hinges to swing open and closed easily. You can also lift the gate off the pin after installation.

Pintle hinges are strong and secure, making them suitable for heavy and frequently used gates. You'll often find them on livestock and farm gates because of their ease of installation, durability, adjustability, and swing range.

8. Swimming Pool Gate Hinges

When selecting gate hinges, it's important to consider the installation site — many commercial establishments must adhere to certain guidelines.

For example, commercial swimming pools must often meet various safety requirements. These requirements exist to prevent unsupervised access by children and pets and reduce fatal accidents. Safety considerations include gate swing direction, latch height, and ground clearance. However, there are also particular requirements for hinges.

Hinges on swimming pool gates are designed to close the gate automatically, ensuring the gate remains closed and locked at all times. They should be durable enough to withstand frequent, high-impact opening and closing. They should also resist rusting, as they're often exposed to water and chemicals from the pool. To remain compliant, look for hinges certified to your local swimming pool safety regulations and standards.

Selecting the Right Gate Hinge

With so many gate hinge types, sizes, and functions, choosing one for your gate can be challenging. Consider these main factors when choosing gate hinges to simplify the choice.

1. Gate Width and Weight

The most crucial factor to consider when selecting a hinge is your gate's width and weight. Choosing a hinge unable to support your gate's weight can cause it to sag, loosen, and scrape the ground. To find the right size hinge, determine the weight of your door first. If your door is relatively large and heavy, you may want to look at heavy-duty, weld-on, or pintle hinges. For lighter gates, consider a strap, butt, or barrel hinge.

Hinges list their load capacity in the product description, which tells you how much weight they can support. Most gates need two hinges, so ensure the load capacity adds up to your gate's weight. If your gate is a bit taller than normal or two hinges aren't enough to support it, you might need to add a third.

Some hinge manufacturers also provide the recommended gate width for the hinge. As the width of the gate increases, so does the pressure on the hinge. You must ensure your hinge is strong enough to support both the weight and width of your gate.

2. Gate Material

The material of your gate and the frame or post can also affect which hinge type you can use. For metal gates, you'll need a weld-on hinge. These are the only type of hinge you can attach, but they also are strong enough to support how heavy most metal gates are. If you have a wooden or composite gate, you can use any screw-on hinge that matches your requirements.

3. Hinge Size

You must also consider the hinge's size and compatibility with your gate. Some hinges have wide plates that need a thicker frame so they don't stick out. The bigger, bulkier plates can hold heavy doors but take up more space. Larger hinges may also leave a wider gap between the gate door and frame. Measure your frame and the gap so you have the measurements on hand when choosing a hinge.

4. Hinge Material

Once you know your gate's weight, you can select the hinge's base material. The base material is often hidden by a finish — the polishing, plating, or paint that changes the hinge's appearance. You should know what material the hinge is made of because its strength is a key factor for load capacity. Stronger materials can hold heavier doors and are more durable. However, these materials can be more expensive.

You'll want a hinge material that is durable and corrosion-resistant while also fitting your budget. To choose a hinge material for your door, consider the following common options:

Steel: Steel hinges are usually the most affordable type and are very strong. However, they are not super resistant to rust or corrosion.
Aluminum: Aluminum hinges are generally cost-effective, lightweight, and corrosion-resistant. They're also environmentally friendly, as aluminum is 100% recyclable.
Stainless steel: Stainless steel is the most common type of gate hinge material. It is strong and resistant to corrosion, rust, and abrasion, making it perfect for outdoor use in harsh environments.
Iron: Iron hinges are durable and have a traditional, rustic appearance that many people enjoy. However, they may be susceptible to rusting.
Brass: Brass hinges are slightly more expensive than most, but they're corrosion-resistant and have an elegant, golden appearance. However, brass is a softer metal that can be susceptible to dents and catches.
Bronze: Bronze hinges are typically the most expensive type of hinge, but you pay more for their high corrosion and rust resistance, as well as their durability and strength.

5. Hinge Design

Other factors that may affect your choice are hinge style and design. While some hinges are concealed or small, others are clearly visible on the gate door.

If aesthetics are important to you, consider the style of your door and your preference when choosing a hinge. For an understated look, try a simple, compact hinge design. You can also find ornate, decorative hinges that are more stylized and eye-catching.

Another aspect of hinge design is the material finish. Hinges can have a powder-coated, galvanized, polished, brushed, or antique finish that gives them varying appearances. If you want something more than a metallic grey finish, you can choose from black, white, brass, and bronze tones to find the right color for your gate.

6. Hinge Operation

The final factor to consider when selecting a hinge is how it operates. Most hinges simply allow the gate to open and close, but others have extra functionality.

For example, you can choose a self-closing hinge to keep your gate closed at all times. Some hinges allow you to change the rate at which the gate closes. If your gate swings open both ways, you'll need a hinge that accommodates that range of movement.

Find the Best Selection of Gate Hinges at HardwareSource

HardwareSource stocks the widest selection of gate hinges available anywhere. No matter what gate hinge type, application, or finish you need, you'll find it in our store. We only stock the industry's best gate hinge brands, including:

Acorn Manufacturing
D&D Technologies
Gatemate
Gorilla
Hager
Locinox
Stanley
Sureclose

Everything is in stock, so it's ready to ship as soon as you place an order.

The product listings on our site include all the details you need to choose the correct hinge for your gate. If you want to replace your existing hinge but are unsure which one it is, use our handy Hinge Finder tool online. Our knowledgeable customer service team is available if you need assistance in this decision.

Otherwise, you can browse our lineup of gate hinges and place your order today!

Matching Screwhole Patterns For Semi-Concealed Hinges

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There is good news and bad news about the screwhole patterns of semi-concealed cabinet hinges. The good news is that most semi-concealed cabinet hinges made today use a center-to-center screwhole spacing of 2-1/8″ on the “Face Frame Wing” of the hinge.

The bad news is that there is no standard screwhole pattern for the “Door Wing” of the hinge. Every manufacturer uses a different screwhole pattern (and a close match is of no help because the screws will go in at an angle). You will find that even hinges made by the same manufacturer will have different screwhole patterns on the door wing. In the recent past there were dozens of companies manufacturing Semi-Concealed hinges. Today there are only a very few companies that make this kind of hinge since most of the market today in cabinet hinges is the European style hinge. For this reason you are going to find that trying to find a match for your old screwhole pattern is an almost impossible task. Since we are talking about the screwhole pattern on the back of the door, this is really not that big of a deal. You can simply fill the old holes and redrill new ones. In many cases you do not even have to fill the old holes because the hinge plate will cover up the old screwholes. The good news here is that since all of this is on the back of the door it is not in a visible place.

Caring For Your Hardware

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Bronze Hardware Care

Bronze is a Living Finish

Bronze is an old world material that does not deteriorate in coastal or other regions. However, bronze is a living finish, meaning that the finish will change color over time. When bronze is exposed to air it will quickly darken and brown. When bronze is exposed to exterior elements it will often turn green. This condition is known as “patina” and is considered desirable by most people. The changing finish is part of the natural beauty of bronze and is not considered a defect.

Care for Bronze Hardware

All bronze darkens with age, however, waxing may slow the process of oxidation. To apply the wax, you need two 1” to 2” inch paint brushes that will be used only for cleaning your bronze. Do not use brushes that you have used for other purposes as chemicals may remain in the bristles and if transferred to the patina finish, may cause permanent discoloration. Never use spray or liquid furniture polishes to clean your bronze hardware. These polishes may contain oils which could damage the original patina finish.

Start by applying a protective circle of tape around the metal ferrules that hold the bristles in the brushes you are using. This will help prevent scratching of the surface when applying the wax and when dusting.

Wipe your bronze free of any dust and fingerprints using a clean, dry, cotton cloth. Use one of the brushes to remove dust from small crevasses or hard to reach places.

Use Renaissance wax, or another microcrystalline wax in most cases, because it is inert and will not yellow over time. Apply to the second brush, use three or four, back and forth, sweeping strokes. Do not dab your brush in the wax. This could cause an abundance of wax to be applied to the bronze that could actually harm the patina surface. Dab your brush on the lid of the wax can to remove any excess wax. Lightly apply a super thin coat of wax to the surface of the bronze using gentle sweeping motions. Apply more wax to the brush as described, working it down into crevices.

Caution: Using too much wax may remove previous layers of wax. It is very important not to apply too much wax or work it into the surface to vigorously. Cover the entire surface with wax and let it dry according to the directions on the container.

Never use spray or liquid furniture polishes to clean your bronze hardware. These polishes may contain oils which could damage the original patina finish.

In climates with higher humidity, or if you live where there is a higher concentration of airborne pollutants, cleaning and waxing may be needed twice a year. Bronze hardware used outside will also need more frequent maintenance.

Keep your brushes separately in labeled bags, free from other contaminants, for future use. Using a clean, dry, cotton cloth, gently rub in a circular motion, the dried wax from the bronze surface until you achieve the desired shine. To achieve a dull surface, do not rub the surface after waxing.

To achieve a better protective coating, you may want to re-apply a second coat using the same technique.

Brass Hardware Care

Overtime brass can become tarnished and dull. Oftentimes, this antiquated appearance is desired, although many prefer the look of shiny brass. If you’d like to keep your brass hardware looking bright and new, follow the steps below.

Before beginning the polishing process, it’s very important to check your brass hardware for two things. The first is to make sure your hardware is solid brass. The easiest way to check this is to use a magnet. Hold the magnet up toyour hardware. If the magnet doesn’t stick, the hardware is most likely solid brass. If the magnet does stick, the hardware is plated brass (most likely over steel or zinc.). The second thing you will need to verify is if your hardware is lacquered. If you see your brass hardware tarnishing, chances are the hardware is not lacquered. However, if you see a thin coating that is flaking or chipping off, then your hardware has a lacquer. If this is the case, your hardware needs to be taken to a metal refinisher.

Once you have verified that your hardware is unlacquered solid brass, you may begin the polishing process. To do this, you will need a good quality polish such as Brasso. Use a soft terry cloth and follow the directions on the bottle. Your hardware should be looking new in no time!

Stainless Steel Hardware Care

Contrary to popular belief, stainless steel can stain and rust.However, it is fairly easy to maintain stainless steel and prevent staining and rusting from happening.

More often than not, dirt, grime, and dust can be quickly cleaned with a mixture of hot water and mild soap. Simply wet a soft cloth with the soapy water and wipe the hardware in the direction of the brushing to clean. Follow with a dry soft cloth to prevent leaving watermarks. If your hardware has stubborn stains or light scratches, a stainless steel cleaner may help, although we recommend testing it somewhere inconspicuous.

If your stainless steel hardware has rust spots, you can use a solution of 1 tablespoon of baking soda to 2 cups water. Rub the solution onto your hardware with a clean, soft rag, taking care to rub in the direction of the grain. Then, rinse and wipe the area with another soft rag.

How to Fix a Squeaky Door Hinge: Avoiding Squeaky Hinges

Mon, 01 Apr 2024 16:13:00 -0700

Doors open and close many times a day, and when you have squeaky hinges, you’re constantly reminded that you need to fix them. Squeaky hinges are enough to send some homeowners over the edge. Thankfully, this guide provides both basic and unusual ways to silence those hinges once and for all. In this guide, you’ll discover what causes squeaky hinges and five effective ways to stop squeaky door hinges.

What Causes Squeaky Hinges?

Hinges start squeaking for many reasons. In some cases, there is little space between the door and the door jamb, causing the wood of the door and the door frame to rub against each other. In other, more common cases, the hinges squeak simply due to wear or settling. Understanding why the hinge is squeaking can help you decide on the best course of action to stop it. Here are four of the most common reasons your hinge might be squeaking:

Damaged pins: Hinges may squeak when a pin is damaged or bent. Often, pins become warped due to incorrect handling when removing them. Once back inside the knuckle, the bent pin will rub against the hinge’s leaf, causing a squeaky sound.
Friction: With too little lubrication, your hinges will be susceptible to friction and create squeaky noises. By properly lubricating your hinges, you ensure its pins will be able to move smoothly.
Dirt or debris inside the knuckle: Sometimes dirt or debris will accumulate inside the knuckle and restrict the hinge’s movement, causing the hinge to squeak when opening and closing the door.
Type of hinge knuckle: A squeaky hinge might also result from the type of hinge knuckle — plain bearing hinge knuckles rub metal on metal, while ball-bearing hinges often squeak less because the bearing raceways separate the knuckles.

Ways to Avoid a Squeaky Hinge

Adding lubricant is often the first solution homeowners try when attempting to fix a squeaky hinge. However, lubricant isn’t always the best option. For example, if your hinge has built-up grime and dirt, lubricant will only solve the issue temporarily. Let’s explore five different ways to stop squeaky door hinges.

1. Apply Lubricant

One of the fastest ways to fix squeaky hinges is by applying a lubricant. We recommend using dry lubricant rather than liquid lubricant. With liquid lubricants, it’s easy for the substance to drip onto the jamb, floor, door, or wall. A dry lubricant will prevent your hinge from squeaking for a few weeks. Here’s how to apply lubricant:

Remove the hinge pins: Close the door and locate the hinge pin. Using a punch tool and hammer, carefully tap the base of the pin to free and pry it out. You can also lubricate the hinge pin without removing it entirely if that fixes the squeak.
Coat the hinge pins with lubricant: Coat the hinge pin as best you can with the lubricant and wipe away any excess with a spare rag. If you choose to use a liquid lubricant, be careful to leave only a thin film to avoid mess.
Place the pin back inside the hinge: Once the pin is steady, tap it back into the hinge carefully with a hammer, and then open and shut the door a few times to ensure the squeak is gone.

Although we recommend sticking with a dry lubricant, you could use a dab of oil, dish soap, or grease. If you end up removing the hinges, you can also rub hot wax from a paraffin candle onto the hinge before reinstalling them. Keep a spare rag within reach for cleaning up.

2. Clean the Hinges

In some cases, your squeaky hinges might be the result of dirt, rust, or grime that has built up inside the hinges. The best call would be to clean the hinges and then lubricate them. Here’s a step-by-step process for cleaning your squeaky door hinges:

Take out the hinge pins: Try loosening each hinge pin on the squeaky door by tapping from underneath with a hammer or mallet. You can use a 16d or similarly sized nail if the hinge pin is stuck or particularly difficult to tap loose. Once the hinge pin is loose, pull it up and out of the hinge. Lift up the door handle to relieve any pressure if the pin should happen to bind. Keep the door closed and work on one hinge at a time.
Scrub the hinge pins: Once the hinge pin is free, scrub the hinge pin with steel wool or a toothbrush in small circular motions to remove any rust, dirt, or paint. You can even add some diluted household cleaners to get rid of stubborn dirt.
Apply lubricant to the hinge pins: Once the hinge pins are clean, we recommend lubricating them with melted wax or a dry spray lubricant. Otherwise, you may use oil, dish soap, or grease if you are unable to procure a dry lubricant. Reinsert the hinge pin, reassemble the hinges, and reinstall the door to its position. Finish the job by testing the hinges for squeaks and wiping away any excess lubricant.

3. Tighten Loose Screws

Another common reason for squeaky hinges is loose screws. You can easily fix squeaky hinges by tightening the screws. You may need to adjust the door hinge if the squeaking is still there.

To tighten the screws, loosen and remove them from the hinges with a screwdriver. Once they are loose, you can adjust the door as needed until it’s in the correct resting position and does not rub against any surfaces while opening and closing. Then, you can tighten the screws on the hinges until they are secure again.

4. Replace Damaged Hinges

If you’ve tried all the above steps and your hinges are still squeaking, they may be trying to tell you that it’s time for a replacement. By replacing the old with the new, you will not only improve the functionality of your door but also add beauty and consistency to your home. There are a wide variety of hardware finishes to choose from, which gives you the freedom to experiment until your vision has turned into a reality.

The hinges you choose should depend on the item you’ll be attaching them to. Is it a door? Is it a cabinet? Here are a few types of hinges you can consider to minimize the chance of squeaking later on:

Door hinges: When considering which door hinge to purchase, ensure that they’re of good quality and match your current hinge size. You can do this by measuring the size of your hinge from side to side and from bottom to top.
Cabinet hinges: There are four main types of cabinet hinges to choose from, including offset, overlay, full inset, and partial inset. The offset hinge is surface-mounted and fully visible, the overlay covers the cabinet opening, the full inset sits in the cabinet opening, and the partial inset is required when the door fits inside the cabinet opening.
Gate hinges: If you’re looking to replace your gate hinges, consider the different types to ensure they are the correct fit and style. There are various gate hinge types, including spring hinges, surface-mounted hinges, pintle hinges, heavy-duty hinges, and butt hinge varieties.
Window and shutter hinges: Window and shutter hinges can be unique, so your best solution is to replace them with an exact match. Be sure to browse some window and shutter hinges online to find ones that match your specific needs.
Specialty hinges: There are also different types of specialty hinges. Some examples may include roller-bearing hinges, weld-on spring hinges, brass ball-tipped hinges, or surface-mounted spring hinges.

Replace Your Squeaky Hinge With HardwareSource

As a homeowner, it’s essential to know how to avoid squeaky door hinges so you can save money on calling an expert to do it for you. If your door hinges are still squeaking after taking the above precautions, we recommend replacing your door hinges with a company that can offer you quality hinges that last. HardwareSource offers a wide selection of hinges and finishes, including brass, bronze, chrome, nickel, pewter, stainless steel, and zinc.

With over 4,000 hinges in stock and ready to ship, we’re an excellent solution for your home improvement project. Shop our door, cabinet, window, and gate hinges and other hardware products on our website, or use our hinge finder to make finding your hinge size easier!

Common Door Hinge Issues and How to Fix Them

Mon, 01 Apr 2024 16:13:00 -0700

When you are having trouble with a door or all the doors in your home, there is a good chance that you have a hinge problem on your hands. Compared to any other type of hardware in the typical home, hinges do the most work. Not only do they support the weight of doors, but they also allow those doors to swing in and out of their openings.

With all the opening and closing, it is no surprise why hinges wear down over time. When it comes to all the common door hinge issues that most homeowners face, this guide will give you a head start on fixing those hinges for good.

Common Door Hinge Issues

Door hinges can last a long time but may fail at one point for one reason or another. It’s vital to know the common problems you may encounter and how to fix them. The following are examples of the challenges you are likely to face and helpful solutions:

Loose Hinges

Is your door starting to sag or hang crooked? If yes, then the hinges are probably weak. Loose hinges are one of the most common issues homeowners face, and it is caused by several factors, including:

Wear and tear: Almost everything has a life span, including the hinges on your doors. The screws become weaker as you open and close the door. Eventually, the only option you might have would be to repair or replace them.
Poor maintenance: Servicing your doors, especially the main entryways, is crucial. This allows you to spot damage early and correct it before it worsens. You can DIY most minor repairs using simple tools like a screwdriver to keep screws tightened.
Intense usage: How you use the door directly impacts the hinge’s life span. Avoid hanging heavy loads on the knob because that can put weight on the slab, causing the screw to loosen over time. This problem is most common in homes with children since they may swing on the doors.
Subpar-quality hinges: Always buy quality if you want to save money. Cheap hinges will only last a few months or years, forcing you to replace them again.

Sometimes all you need to do to fix the problem is retighten the hinge screws. However, if stripped holes prevent you from retightening them, a dowel might save the day. Wooden dowels are round pieces of wood in the form of a rod. They are available in varying lengths and diameters.

To remove the stripped screws from the hinges, you will need a piece of wood or support material, a drill bit, screwdrivers, an electric drill, wood glue, a wood saw, new screws and a wood dowel.

How to Fix Loose Door Hinges

Here is a step-by-step guide on how you can tighten your door hinges:

1. Remove the Door

Remove the door to get access to the hinges. It would be best to start by opening the door and wedging a piece of wood underneath to keep it level. Next, use a screwdriver or electric drill to remove the screws that attach the loose hinge to the door jamb. If there is paint over the hinge, slice around it carefully with a box cutter or utility knife to free it before removing the screw. Then, swing the leaf away from the jamb.

2. Fix the Loose Holes

It’s usual for the holes where the screws fit to expand and weaken over time, although different factors may accelerate the process. To ensure the door is stable, you must fix the holes so the hinges can hold the door tightly.

Attach a 3/8-inch drill bit to an electric drill and bore out the stripped holes, going at least 1 inch deep. Aim at making all the stripped holes a uniform size so you can fit a piece of wooden dowel seamlessly. After that, saw a 3/8 diameter of wooden dowel into 1-inch long pieces, the same depth as the holes.

3. Insert the Wooden Dowels

Spread carpenter’s glue on the wood dowel and tap it into the hole carefully with a hammer until it is flush with the door jamb. The glue will hold the dowel inside the stripped hole, giving you a fresh, flat surface to reattach the hinge.

Bore out and plug the remaining stripped screw holes using this same method. If excess glue oozes out of the holes onto the surface, wipe it away with a rag to prevent it from drying. Otherwise, it could make the surface uneven. Check your wood glue’s recommended waiting time to make sure it is dry before repositioning the hinge leaf.

Finally, secure the hinge by driving screws into the dowel-reinforced holes. You can attach a 1/8-inch drill bit to your electric drill and drill into each dowel to create pilot holes for the screws — that should make it easier to reattach the hinges.

Stuck Hinge Pin

In an older home, chances are the doors have been latched in place for a long time. There are different reasons why this might happen. Classic examples include leaving the door closed for a long time, neglecting the hinges or painting over them. Depending on the age and general condition of the door’s hinges and pins, it may be difficult to remove them. You can nudge the hinge pin loose using a few tools you probably have lying around the garage.

How to Remove and Fix a Stuck Hinge Pin

If the hinge pins are stuck, the following steps can help you remove them:

Get a drive pin punch or 16d sinker nail to use as a makeshift punch. Do not use a screwdriver to remove a hinge pin, especially if your hinge is made of softer alloy like brass. Screwdrivers will damage your hinge pin head and knuckle.
Place the punch at the bottom of the hinge barrel where the hinge pin terminates. If you’re using a 16d nail, place the pointed end of the nail on the bottom of the hinge barrel.
Gently hammer the pin upward. It might take some time to get the pin to move, but it should eventually release with enough hammering unless it is rusted in place.
If your hinge pin is rusted and stuck in the hinge barrel, you’ll need a penetrating oil to break down the corrosion. Products like Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster are excellent options for this application. Apply the oil and give it time to work into the hinge barrel — 15 minutes minimum.
You can reuse the hinge components if they are in good shape, but you must lubricate them to prevent them from getting stuck in the future. Dry lubricants are best, but you can also use household items like cooking oil, petroleum jelly, paraffin wax, or dish soap. Take care to apply only a thin layer to minimize mess.

Squeaky Hinges

There are several possible explanations for your squeaky hinges. For example, it could be that the space between the door and the door jamb is narrow, causing them to rub against each other. Another common reason is that the door’s hinges have aged, which is often the case. Whatever the cause, there is a way to stop the door from creaking whenever you open or close it.

Lubricating the Hinges

When opening or closing a door comes with an audible squeak, it may be time to lubricate those hinges. Fortunately, you can fix this common hinge problem without removing the door from the frame. While a petroleum-based penetrating oil like WD-40 is excellent for this purpose, you can also use bar soap, petroleum jelly, or olive oil. To lubricate your squeaky hinges, work through the following steps:

First, loosen each hinge pin by gently tapping it free with a hammer or mallet. You can use a 16d nail as a makeshift punch if you’re having trouble getting the hinge pin to loosen.
Once the pin is loose, lift it out. Lift the door handle to relieve pressure if the pin should happen to bind. Remember to work on one hinge at a time and keep the door closed.
If the door has three hinges, remove the middle one last. You may need an extra hand for this job. Otherwise, place a piece of wood under the door to support its weight and keep it level.
Once the hinge pin is loose, clean it using a brush and a solvent.
Let it dry, and gently polish the surface with fine sandpaper.
Lightly coat the hinge pin with a thin layer of petroleum jelly or another at-home lubricant, like bar soap.
Dab a little lubricant in the top of the pin slot.
Reverse the process and firmly attach the door to the frame.

If you remove the hinges, rub them with white grease, petroleum jelly, or hot wax from a paraffin candle before reinstallation. This protective layer will impart them with rust resistance and allow them to move freely.

While you can treat your hinges with spray lubricant to accomplish this goal, a dry or sticky substance is often less messy and easier to use because it stays on the surface when applied. Regardless of how you decide to lubricate your hinges, be sure to have a clean rag close by to wipe up excess.

Unlevel Jamb or Leaning Door

When the door jamb isn’t level, it can cause the door to lean. This can lead to issues such as:

Difficulty opening and closing doors: It isn’t easy to open and close the doors when they lean because the hinges cannot work correctly. Besides holding the doors off the ground, the hinges let you move the door quickly back and forth. This function is disrupted when there is an imbalance.
Irregular gaps: Have you noticed those uneven gaps at the corners of your door when you stand at a certain angle? That means your door is slanting towards one side. Fixing the hinges can put the door back in position.
Misaligned locks and doorknobs: Imagine investing in a door only to see the locks and knobs misaligned. Besides disrupting your home’s beauty, this issue makes it difficult to lock your door, meaning your privacy and safety are compromised. The best solution is investing in higher-quality replacement hinges, especially if the problems remain after several fixes.

How to Fix an Unlevel Jamb or Leaning Door

You could take the door down and reset the jamb, but correcting the gap difference using hinge shims is usually a much easier way to get the door working properly again. However, you will probably need to reset the jamb if the gap difference is any more than 3/16 inches.

Here’s how to fix this problem:

Measure the gap between the top and bottom of the door and subtract the measurements to determine the difference and type of shim you need.
A thin cardboard shim is an adequate solution for some hinge problems. However, unless the gap is extremely minimal, you’re likely better off buying specialized hinge shims. These spacer pieces are pre-drilled and easy to use, and you don’t have to remove the hinge all the way to place them. Plus, because they’re made of high-impact plastic, they won’t compress like cardboard, which makes them ideal for steel doors and heavy entry doors.
While the hinges are still in place, open the door and wedge a piece of wood under it to support the weight and prevent the door from moving as you unscrew it.
Remove the screws using a screwdriver or a drill with the appropriate bit. If you must remove all three hinges, save the middle one for last.
Slide the shim behind the hinge that needs extra spacing. You want all three hinges to be on the same plane to prevent the door from binding. Your top and bottom hinges will likely need the most shimming, and the middle hinge will likely need some minor shimming as well.
Drive the screws back in, checking the operation of the door as you go.
Add or remove shims until the door is straight and working properly.

Door Opening on Its Own

Hinges hold doors in position, so if yours opens as it pleases, something is wrong. The standard explanation is that your door jamb is out of plumb, affecting the hinge function. The effect is that your door loses balance and easily shifts towards the direction of the tilt. The question is, what causes your door to tilt? There are many possible reasons.

It may be that the door was improperly fixed the first time or that the door carried some heavy load, causing the hinges to shift. It can also result from wall and door settling, causing the entire jamb to be off. You can fix this problem by adjusting the screws. If that does not work, you should remove the door and fix it properly. Here is a step-by-step guide:

Close the door and check the spacing on the top and latch side.
Determine the part it leans towards.
Wedge the door at the bottom and remove the hinges with a screwdriver.
Clean the surface and shim the area until the door balances. You can use a spirit level to check.
Adjust the wedge such that it holds the door in the correct position.
Screw the hinge pins tightly to hold the door in place.

In some cases, tightening your screws may not fix this problem. If your door still swings open or closed, the jamb is likely out of plumb. In these cases, you need to use self-closing spring hinges or reverse spring hinges to correct the problem. You can also correct the jamb.

Rusty Hinges

Rusted hinges affect the door’s appearance and functionality. Rust occurs when the hinges are exposed to moisture and humidity over an extended period. Rusted hinges can make it difficult to open and close the door. The good news is that the problem is often fixable.

How to Fix a Rusty Hinge

Here are a few steps to fix a rusty hinge:

Inspect the hinges: Examine the hinges on your door to see the extent of rust. Pay attention to the areas where the metal surfaces contact each other. This inspection will help you determine whether the hinge is worth saving. If so, you’ll want to remove it for the next steps so you don’t damage the door or the jamb.
Brush away surface rust: Use steel wool or a wire brush to scrub away loose rust from the surface of the hinges. Try to remove as much accumulation as possible.
Apply rust remover: Apply commercial rust remover or homemade solutions like lemon juice or vinegar to the hinge. Wait for a few minutes to allow the rust to dissolve.
Scrub the hinge: Scrub the hinge with the steel wool or wire brush to remove any remaining rust. Aim at getting a clean, rust-free surface.
Clean the hinge: Wash the components with water and wipe them with a clean cloth. Make sure the hinge is completely dry because moisture will invite further rusting.
Lubricate the hinge: Lubricant protects the hinges against rust and helps the moving parts work more smoothly. As noted above, you can use penetrating oil products like WD-40 or household items like cooking oil or petroleum jelly.

It’s vital to inspect and lubricate your hinges regularly to prevent corrosion. Periodic maintenance helps you protect your investment and staves off the need to spend time and energy buying cleaning products and scrubbing off rust. If corrosion is left unchecked, hinges will eventually rust to the point where the only option is to replace them.

Remember, hinges are pivotal in how your doors function, so it’s always best to choose quality. It’s better to replace inferior hinges now than spend hours and money reviving them in the future.

Get Quality Hinges From HardwareSource

Knowing how to fix a door hinge is crucial, but any repair is only temporary if you buy inferior products. Hinges are perhaps the most used components on a door, so you want to choose products with a long life span. With a little preventive maintenance and a premium product, you can expect hinges that last for decades, saving you money, time, and effort.

At HardwareSource, we understand how vital reliable door hinges are to homeowners. We invest resources into finding solutions that eliminate most of the problems our clients face. We have supplied homes with high-quality hinges since 1892 and offer a wide selection of replacement door hinges to fit virtually any entryway.

Browse our full range online to find the perfect hinge, or fill out our Hinge Finder Form now for assistance determining which of our products is best for your application.

Fixing a Stripped Screw Hole for Hinges

Mon, 01 Apr 2024 16:13:00 -0700

Have you noticed a door that feels loose at the hinges? The screws and the holes they’re drilled into may be stripped. By stripped, we mean that the drilled holes and screws are unable to efficiently hold the weight of the door. This can create wear on the door jamb and cause the door to improperly shut, so the screws don’t fit snugly anymore. What should you do about this problem?

Luckily, it can be a relatively cost-effective and easy fix! Here is a step-by-step guide for fixing a stripped screw hole for hinges.

Causes of Stripped Screw Holes

The most common reason that screw holes become stripped is wear and tear from repeated stress on the wood or metal and the hinges holding the screws. This is a natural consequence of repeatedly opening and closing doors. Other causes of a stripped screw hole include:

Putting too much weight on the screw.
Expansion and contraction of the wood from weather changes.
Drilling or turning the screws at an angle to the door frame.
Overtightening screws.

Sometimes, the issue also lies in opting to use electric tools to drill in the screws. To prevent screw holes from becoming stripped as you install screws, you need need to work with the drill at the appropriate rotational speed. However, some drills don’t have a speed setting and will drive the screw in too quickly, which can strip the wood. If you don’t have speed settings on your drill, the most effective method is to start with an electric drill but finish the final torque manually. Installing screws manually will give you some control over the torque required to secure the screws.

If you do choose to drill, there are some tips you can apply to avoid stripping, including choosing a drill with a range of speed or torque settings, matching the right drill bit to the screws you are using for optimal torque, and drilling pilot holes sized to the screw shank diameter.

Methods to Fix a Stripped Screw Hole

You can fix stripped screw holes using a variety of methods depending on the resources at hand.

Order a Screw Repair Kit

Screw repair kits are easy to find at local hardware stores, or you can order one online from woodworking retailers. Screw repair kits are an excellent option if you want a straightforward and easy method. Kits come with a plastic strip fitting and glue. To use these repair kits, you typically cut the strips to the size you need so that they fit to the correct depth of the threaded hole. If the kit comes with glue, you use the glue to secure the plastic anchor.

Some kits are suited for specific materials, but many work with any type of material. Screw repair kits are convenient for simple projects, but they may not fit all applications.

Try Larger Screws

Stripped screw holes can’t secure screws anymore because the thread engagement is no longer effective in the enlarged hole.

For wood, an easy fix can be replacing the old screw with a longer screw and one that has a slightly larger diameter. However, a larger diameter means a larger head, which may cause binding when the door is closed. You may be able to install a larger screw into the stripped hole securely enough for a temporary fix. Note that this method may not work for hinges installed in metal frames.

Be careful of using a screw that is too big for the hole — or applying too much force as you drive it in — or it may split the wood as you install it. Opt for a screw that is only bigger by a gauge or two to avoid damaging the hole.

Insert Matchsticks or Toothpicks

A quick way of tightening a screw hole that’s become too long is to fill it with matchsticks or some sturdy toothpicks. Filling the hole with matchsticks is a good way to fix door hinge holes if you are working with frames that are made of softer wood. Simply gather a few matchsticks with the same width and place them into the hole before driving the screws in. Where applicable, you can add a small amount of wood glue to the hole before placing the matchsticks.

Fill the Hole With Hardwood Dowels

To fix cabinet hinge holes, you can use dowels to fill the hole before you install the screw again. Filling holes and re-installing screws is one of the most effective and secure methods. This method also suits applications where the frame is made from harder wood that can break or tear more easily. Filling the hole using dowels is also a better choice if you have a heavy door.

Use DIY Techniques to Fill the Hole

If you are really in a pinch, here are a few innovative methods to fix stripped screw holes by using everyday items:

Use cable ties to fill the hole.
Use insulated wire casing stripped from the wire.
Fill the hole with glue, and allow the glue to dry fully before placing screws.
Plug the hole with tissue paper and glue, trim the excess, and allow the glue to dry before driving in the screws.

How to Fix a Stripped Screw Hole

Filling a stripped screw hole and re-installing the screw can provide a secure fix that can last longer than other DIY methods. Here is an overview of what you will need, and step-by-step instructions to guide you through the process.

Here’s what you’ll need:

A screwdriver
A power drill
A drill bit
A wooden dowel (should be the same size as the drill bit)
Wood saw (handheld or mechanical)
Wood glue (preferably Gorilla Glue)
New screws

Follow these 5 steps to fix a stripped screw hole:

1. Remove the Old Screws From the Door Hinge

Depending on how stripped the holes are, the screws may easily pull out. Otherwise, screw them out and discard them. You can leave the hinge attached to the door if those holes are in good condition. If not, remove those too. Unless your door has three hinges, you’ll need to pop the pins of the hinge to remove the door.

2. Size the Dowel

Before drilling any holes, you want to make sure that the size of the hole is going to match the diameter of your hardwood dowels. You will need to cut the dowel to fit the depth of the threaded hole. To do this, insert the dowel into the first hole and measure how far it goes in with a pencil. Pull it out and cut it with a saw into a small bit. It will likely measure around 1 inch in length. You’ll do the rest of the holes just like this, so you end up with a bunch of little dowel pieces.

3. Drill out Holes and Place Dowels

Next, you’ll take your power drill to clean up the existing hole and prepare it for the wooden dowel. Take a little wood glue and put it on the base of the hardwood dowel, then fit it into the hole. We recommend that you use Gorilla Glue, as it does a great job of expanding in the hole.

Drive the dowel in by lightly hammering. Trim off any excess, then sand the plug or dowel down so that it is flush with the frame.

4. Pre-Drill the Holes and Install the New Screws

Allow the glue to cure based on the manufacturer’s recommendations, then drill a pilot hole in the center of the dowel before installing a new screw. You can mark the wood through the openings in the hinge for accuracy. Line the hinge back up with the holes and start the new screws. The important thing to remember here is to not overtighten! You’ll just end up stripping the hole again. Get the screws just tight enough with the screwdriver to where the hinge doesn’t budge.

5. Finish Up

Repeat this process for all the hinges to fully repair the stripped holes. You should end up with a very sturdy result! This repair will also work for striker plates.

Tips for Preventing Stripped Screw Holes

Follow these tips to prevent common door hinge issues like stripped holes:

Drill pilot holes to prevent the wood from splitting when you install screws.
Avoid overtightening screws.
Use the right torque setting on your drill.
Use the right drill bit sizes and screw sizes for the application.
Opt for high-quality materials, including your hinges and screws, so they last longer.

Source Quality Hinges From HardwareSource

While fixing your stripped screw holes, you may wish to go ahead and replace your door hinges to add new, modern accents or to match your home’s color scheme. At HardwareSource, we offer hundreds of beautiful door hinges in a variety of styles and finishes. We have everything from traditional and modern styles to European and beyond.

Whether you need butt, spring, or heavy-duty hinges, we have them! We also carry a wide range of screws, so you can get the perfectly matching ones for your new hinges. It’ll be easy to find the right measurements and, best of all, we ship the next business day. Whether you’re a contractor, homebuilder, or homeowner, we’re your source for high-quality hardware at an affordable price. Browse our collection of hinges and screws or use our convenient Hinge Finder to get exactly what you need.